(May 4, 2022) India’s rich tapestry of handloom is unequivocal. That it has entered the mainstream rungs of fashion, appearing on catwalks the world over just paved the way for desi fashion designers to make their mark in the world of haute couture. Today, many Indians are responsible for the embroidery, embellishments, and fabrics you see by prestigious fashion houses like Versace, Hermès, Christian Louboutin, Gucci, Prada, Dior, etc. Many Indian designers and influencers, including Anita Dongre, Suket Dhir, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia, Bibhu Mohapatra, Tarun Tahiliani, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, and Ritu Kumar, have carved a niche for themselves, in a very dynamic and cut-throat industry of haute couture.
From wearable everyday pieces to luxe bridal couture, these Indians have made their mark on the fashion industry, representing India in a unique way. While some stick to traditional styles like sarees, lehengas, tunics, and churidars, others embrace updated aesthetics like tie-dye sweats, floral button-downs, and puff sleeves.
Global Indian explores Indian fashion creators and influencers that are making their mark across the world.
Naeem Khan, fashion designer
Born in a middle-class family in Bareilly, Uttar Pradesh, fashion designer Naeem Khan hardly needs an introduction. His father and grandfather cultivated an early interest in textiles, as they both designed intricate clothes worn by royal families. Of his early passion for design, Khan has said, “It was built into my DNA. I watched my father design formal wear for India’s most influential people, and I knew that I would want to pursue a similar path.”
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The designer, who has styled several influential ladies, including first lady Michelle Obama, Queen Noor of Jordan, Taylor Swift, Beyoncé and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, moved to the United States in 1978 to apprentice for legendary American designer Halston. “My knowledge of fashion and lifestyle is influenced by my time with Halston,” Naeem had said while being interviewed for the documentary film Halston.
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Khan spent several years after his apprenticeship continuing to work with Halston on freelance, going on to launch fashion house Riazee in 1981, a clothing label named after his mother that was carried in prominent American retail stores for about a decade. Today, Naeem is known for his intricately detailed gowns with sequins and beads, and is one of the most influential designers in the world of haute couture.
Megan Kothari, jewellery designer
During her travels to India, the New York-based jewellery designer, Megan Kothari would collect tribal jewellery, specifically big cuffs and statement necklaces, crafted by the Rabari community in Gujarat. That is where the journey of her label, Aaryah, began.
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Interestingly, even though she was born into a family of diamond traders, Megan didn’t want to pursue the same path. Instead, she chose to pursue her interest in fashion and started interning at the age of 15 in New York City. The designer earned a degree in international trade and fashion marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “However, after gaining invaluable experience in the beauty industry, it turned out that I did have an inclination towards designing jewellery; it became a form of self-expression for me,” Megan shares on her official website.
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Today, her designs are not only coveted by fine jewellery enthusiasts from around the world, she also received the ultimate celebrity stamp of approval when musician Taylor Swift wore the “Rani” earrings from her brand at the recently held Rock & Roll Hall of Fame Induction Ceremony.
Masoom Minawala Mehta, fashion content creator
One of the earliest influencers or content creators in India, Masoom Minawala Mehta, made history at the Milan Fashion Week-2022, by becoming the first-ever Indian creator to walk the runway as a showstopper. Hailing from a family of jewellers in Mumbai, she founded a start-up when she was just 19. As the start-up didn’t do too well, Masoom set up a fashion portal – Miss Style Fiesta in 2010, where she would give tips on current trends and fashion inputs.
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She follows a “principle of four” while creating content — ensuring that the content either educates, inspires, helps or entertains. From Dior to Hermès, and Jimmy Choo, Masoom’s feed is action-packed and always genuine. Despite moving base from Mumbai to Antwerp after her marriage in 2016, the influencer’s social media posts strongly promote her love for Indian designers.
Honoured to have walked Cannes with fashion that spoke for itself but I would also like to highlight the prep work involved in getting there which is a storyline in itself. Tap to read more about what I brought to the Cannes Film Festival 2021 https://t.co/Lhu5J32NE0
— Masoom Minawala (@MasoomMinawala) July 26, 2021
In her bid to help small designers tide over the 2020 pandemic, she started a series of short fashion videos where she personally curated lists of brands to pick for various budgets and occasions.
Diipa Büller-Khosla, fashion and beauty influencer
A globally recognised face, Diipa Büller-Khosla has graced covers of prestigious fashion magazines like Conde Nast Traveller India, Brides, and Travel & Leisure. Having left India at 17, Diipa moved to Amsterdam to study law. Now shuttling between London and Amsterdam, with an Instagram following exceeding 516k, it’s safe to say that she is a heavyweight in the world of influencers.
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The influencer, who is also a mother of one, served as ambassador for brands like Estée Lauder, Maybelline, and Kérastase, and even walked international red carpets like Cannes and Venice. Her organisation, PostForChange, urges digital influencers to use their voice for various causes; she herself is vocal about fighting discrimination, something she has faced in the past due to her skin colour.
Sheena Sood, fashion designer
A textile designer by professional, New York-based Sheena Sood’s label abacaxi celebrates diversity in all forms. Sheena began her career as an artist, studying visual art at Brown University and Central Saint Martins, often incorporating embroidery, beading and sequin work into her paintings. Soon after graduating, she developed print and embellishment designs for American label Tracy Reese before briefly moving to India to live with her parents.
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Interestingly, it was the bounty of textiles she had collected in her homeland that inspired abacaxi’s first capsule collection. In 2020, Sheena prepared for a full launch for spring, however it was quickly halted by the pandemic. Identifying a need, pivoted to creating intricate beaded and embroidered face masks that garnered attention from the likes of New York magazine. With that momentum, the label grew to include a full ready-to-wear offering, soaked in aqueous tie-dye prints and technicolour palettes.
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