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Mountaineers Tashi and Nungshi Malik Global Indian
Global IndianstoryLiving on the edge: For mountaineers and twin Everesters Tashi and Nungshi Malik, the world is not enough    
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Living on the edge: For mountaineers and twin Everesters Tashi and Nungshi Malik, the world is not enough    

Written by: Vikram Sharma

(October 31, 2021) Tashi and Nungshi Malik, Indian athletes, love to live life on the edge. Years ago, when the two mountaineers were caught in the longest snow storm at an altitude of 14,000 feet at Denali, the highest mountain peak in North America – and temperatures dipped to minus 40 degrees – nothing worried them more than the possibility of having to abort their attempt to summit the peak. Determined to go through with their plans, they spent a week inside their tiny tent waiting for better weather. Most other climbers began to descend, but giving up was not an option. The two Indian mountaineers took a huge gamble and decided to ascend. Dodging danger at every step as they delicately negotiated crevasses and steep slopes, they finally managed to summit on June 4, 2014.  

For Tashi and Nungshi – the first siblings, twins, and Indian athletes to climb the Seven Summits and reach the North and South Poles – impossible is nothing. The tougher the challenge, the better for them. If climbing Mount Everest had put them in the list of good climbers, their success at Denali firmly established them as professional and seasoned climbers.  

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

“That feeling when we finally stood on top of North America cannot be described,” smile Tashi and Nungshi, settling down for an exclusive interview with Global Indian. Denali is considered to be the third most isolated peak on Earth after Mt Everest and Mt Aconcagua.  

Journey to the top 

Climbing mountains was never in the scheme of things until their father Col Virendra Singh Malik enrolled the then 12th graders into the basic mountaineering course at Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM) in Uttarkashi. Their father, who’d himself led several dangerous missions, believed that it was exposure to physical danger and challenges that would put one in touch with their true selves.   

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

As Army kids, Tashi and Nungshi were exposed to the outdoors quite early in their childhood. At age 7, they parasailed (tied with a shawl to their father’s back), and went river rafting and skiing as well.  Originally from Anwali village in the Sonepat district of Haryana, the Maliks settled down in Dehradun after Col Malik’s retirement. Incidentally, the sisters, who were born in 1991, went to nine different schools across the country what with their father’s frequent transfers. 

During their training sessions, the instructors were very impressed with the Malik sisters’ grit and motivation and would encourage the siblings to target Mt Everest and become Indian athletes. “It was very different from the typical classroom learning and ‘routine’, less challenging physical activities that our school and college life offered. Being girls in predominantly male-dominated courses boosted our sense of pride and achievement tremendously,” say the sisters.  

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

First step upwards 

Their mother, though, had her own misgivings about their quest to scale Mt Everest. It was only after much persuasion that she agreed. Tashi and Nungshi scaled Mount Everest on May 19, 2013, becoming the first twin sisters to do so. “We decided to climb Everest because conquering the highest peak symbolizes our ability to dream big and to achieve those dreams. As Sir Edmund Hillary put it ‘We do not conquer the mountain, but ourselves,’” smiles Tashi.  

By August 2013, the sisters participated in “Climbathon 2013” where they scaled a virgin peak at 21,000 feet, which was funded by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.  On December 16, 2014, after climbing Mount Vinson in Antarctica, they became the world’s first twins, siblings, and Indian athletes to scale the Seven Summits together. In July 2015, they completed the “Explorers Grand Slam.” Thereafter, they completed the “Three Pole Challenge.”  In September 2019, the sisters led the Indian “Khukuri warriors” in the World’s Toughest Race: Eco-Challenge Fiji” that pitched 66 teams of adventure athletes from 30 nations against the forces of Nature and against each other. They were the first and only South Asians to participate in this global adventure that spanned 671 kilometres of rugged Fijian landscape, ocean, rivers, lakes, and jungles. 

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

Road ahead 

So what else is left to conquer? “We plan to embark on a four-year epic journey which will allow us to do full length ski over 5,000 km of Antarctica, Arctic, Patagonia and Greenland – one ice cap each year starting with Greenland. At the moment, it has been stalled due to inadequate funding. We also want to discover more of the Swiss Alps, especially the Matterhorn,” smile the mountaineer duo. Presently in Switzerland, where their day starts at 4 am, Tashi and Nungshi have already scaled three peaks – Breithorn,  Riffelhorn, and Allalinhorn. “Among the three, Riffelhorn was our first multi-pitch peak and was definitely a challenge for us,” they say.   

The twins say they constantly train their mind to rule the body. “We strongly believe that when the body tells ‘give up’, the mind can command ‘get up’. The desire to achieve our goal is far stronger than the fears and risks in its pursuit,” says Tashi. This, backed by their inspiration to champion the cause of the girl child and the belief that their success will positively impact millions of girls in India and elsewhere fuels their determination. 

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

Mottos to live by 

One of the basic mottos they follow before attempting any of the high peaks is ‘preserve energy’. When climbing high altitude, mountaineers tend to lose energy at a rapid rate. “During the Everest attempt, we lost 12 kgs each in two months. In each of the other climbs, we lost 4-5 kgs. Since the intervening gap between two climbs has been just about two months, there is very little time to recoup and regain some weight,” informs Nungshi.  

Both undergo strength training, aerobics, and endurance and it is these exercises that become progressively strenuous and challenging as the climb gets closer. Tashi says that pushing themselves physically and mentally enables them to gain emotional strength and in turn, develop the mental toughness. “Nature is all powerful and you realize it when attempting to summit a high mountain. You become aware of your vulnerability and insignificance. A small shake of a mountain (avalanche) can easily send you into oblivion. The quietness and remoteness add to the sense of loneliness and fear,” says Tashi. 

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

For Tashi and Nungshi, their dad is their mentor, manager, and coach. Col Malik is the one who does full research on each mountain, nature and challenges in that climb and briefs his daughters thoroughly. He is most intimately involved in risk assessment and mitigation besides drawing a training and nutrition programme for them. “Dad is a great motivator and is more like a buddy than a typical father. With him, we are absolutely like a team on a mission and we freely discuss possible injuries, death, and our plans in case of worst-case scenarios,” says Nungshi. 

With a little divine help 

Each time the sisters are on an expedition they carry Buddhist prayer flags with them. “The flags represent the five elements of Nature: earth, water, fire, air and space. Consciousness of these elements has helped us understand the laws of Nature and build a deeper intuition of how the universe operates. The constant fluttering of the flags spreads good karma around us.” 

Mountaineers | Tashi and Nungshi Malik | Global Indian

They have one piece of advice for people embarking on a journey. “We have been taught to follow our passion and our dreams by our parents. Life has taught us that if you follow your dream with all the commitment it takes, you will succeed. It may take its time and may test your limits many times over. But if you persevere, you will eventually realise your dream. No matter how many mistakes you make or how slow you progress, you are still way ahead of everyone who isn’t trying.”   

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  • first siblings and twins to climb the Seven Summits
  • Global Indian
  • Mount Aconcagua
  • Mount Denali
  • Mount Everest
  • mountaineering
  • Nungshi Malik
  • Spirit of adventure
  • Tashi Malik
  • Twin Climbers

Published on 31, Oct 2021

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Baljeet Kaur: Meet the first Indian mountaineer to summit seven 8000m peaks

(January 19, 2024) "Mountaineer Baljeet Kaur dead", a headline that went viral in the spring of 2023 when the Indian mountaineer went missing for more than 18 hours during one the most dangerous treks in the world - summiting Mt Annapurna I. With no oxygen support, her chances of survival in -50°C at almost 7000 metres above sea level were so bleak that the news of her death spread like wildfire. But the mountains saved her and she was found alive, which was nothing short of a miracle. "The mountains wanted me to live. So I am alive today," she said upon her return. Baljeet is the first Indian woman to scale seven 8000-metre peaks - Mt Everest, Mt Annapurna, Mt Kanchenjunga and Mt Lhotse - in Nepal in one season in 2022, and later added three more peaks, making it a total of seven 8000m peaks. In the last few years, Baljeet has undertaken many challenging summits but it was Mt Annapurna that tested her the most. Things started going downhill after she went missing near Camp IV of Mt Annapurna while descending from the summit point. With no oxygen support, Baljeet soon started showing signs of AMS (Acute

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but it was Mt Annapurna that tested her the most. Things started going downhill after she went missing near Camp IV of Mt Annapurna while descending from the summit point. With no oxygen support, Baljeet soon started showing signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), and started hallucinating. "My mind was manipulating me. When I reached the summit point, I started seeing people who didn’t exist. I saw oxygen plants. I slapped myself multiple times, started motivating myself, and somehow mustered the courage to move forward," she reminisced in another interview, adding, "Every 15-20 minutes, my mind would imagine something and I’d regain consciousness for five minutes. My life depended on decisions I took in that time frame."

As the night faded into the light, she was able to send a SOS message and was airlifted aftere being stranded for nearly 18 hours right below one of the deadliest peaks in the world and for 48 hours above 7000m. "I have always trusted the mountains and respected them. I save them by keeping them clean, so they look out for me. But, in this case, I think I survived because I was self-motivated. That’s my mantra," she added.

A village girl becomes a mountaineer

Coming from a humble background in Himachal Pradesh, her mother is a homemaker while her dad works as a bus driver for the Himachal Road Transport Corporation. Growing up in a village, girls were expected to take care of household chores and get married. But Baljeet's mom wanted her daughter to pursue her dreams. "My mom wanted to join the police. But she couldn't. However, she pushed me to follow my passion, and live an extraordinary life," Baljeet said at TEDx.

 

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A post shared by Baljeet Kaur (@mountain_daughter_baljeet)

It was during a NCC camp that Baljeet had her first taste of mountaineering when she was chosen for an excursion to Mt Deo Tibba at the age of 20. That was the beginning of a life of adventure. She loved scaling peaks, and soon joined a team of ten NCC mountaineers for an adventure to the 7,120-meter-high Mt Trishul. However, the team could only reach 6350m as the climb was cut short due to bad weather. A year later, she found herself as a part of another NCC mission to Mt Everest, this time reaching 8,548 metres before she was taken back to the base camp by her Sherpa. "Some 300 meters before, my oxygen mask stopped working, and I fainted. Seeing my condition, the Sherpa asked me to return. But I was inconsolable, and promised to return in 2020," she added.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Baljeet Kaur (@mountain_daughter_baljeet)

Scaling to the top

With the taste of adventure in her mouth and the sunburn on her skin, she knew she had found her calling. But she knew she needed the kind of preparation that takes her to the top of the peaks, and spent the next few years doing mountaineering courses, learning skiing, snowboarding. Now, she was ready for the opportunity and it came knocking on her door in the form of Everest expedition by Indian Mountaineering Foundation, which included scaling four peaks. However, it dawned upon her that if she is running after making records, she will never be able to achieve it. "The mountains wanted me to scale them selflessly. I did that when I scaled Mt Pumori (7161m) in 2021, and I became the first Indian woman mountaineer to achieve the feat," she revealed, adding that it gave her the confidence to scale other peaks now. In 2022, she became the only Indian mountaineer to scale four 8000m peaks in less than a month.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZQg92wR6tk

Baljeet's emergence from the brink of death during the Mt. Annapurna summit stands as a testament to the indomitable spirit of human perseverance. Her unwavering belief in herself and her unyielding determination allowed her to conquer not only the peaks but also the depths of fear that gripped her. Her journey serves as an inspiration to all, showcasing the extraordinary feats that can be achieved when one confronts their fears with resilience and self-belief.

  • Follow Baljeet Kaur on Instagram and LinkedIn
Story
Anurag Nallaveli peaks sans oxygen, has climbed Manaslu, Pico de Orizaba & Denali

(December 30, 2021) At 2 am on September 28, 2021, mountaineer and software engineer Anurag Nallavelli left Camp-4 to summit Mount Manaslu — the eighth highest mountain in the world at 8,163 meters above sea level. He climbed all night in snowy weather with barely any visibility. As he entered the death zone, he “came across” a cafe that was surprisingly “ busy.” On his way to the summit, he saw a Canadian climber’s corpse being dragged by four people. “What the heck?” he wondered as he finally made it to the summit. With that he achieved the unique feat of summiting Mt Manaslu sans supplementary oxygen and sherpa (local guide). In the death zone (term for an altitude when oxygen pressure is insufficient), the mind and body behave differently and trick you into seeing things that don't exist. The cafe that Anurag “saw” was unreal. The dead body was real, though. “After I made it to the summit and back at Camp 4, I just laid down and cried. Those images of the dead climber haunted me. I felt helpless and drained, emotionally and physically,” recalls Anurag. Climbing is meditative, and mountains make Anurag feel alive. “When you are

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mmit and back at Camp 4, I just laid down and cried. Those images of the dead climber haunted me. I felt helpless and drained, emotionally and physically,” recalls Anurag.

Climbing is meditative, and mountains make Anurag feel alive. “When you are high up in the clouds, you get to see the world from a different perspective. There are no distractions. As you go up in altitude, the air is thinner and every step is difficult. Overcoming hurdles and making it to the top and back safely, empowers you,” he tells Global Indian.

How a software guy turned mountaineer

Born and brought up in Hyderabad, mountain climbing was nowhere in the realm of imagination for this software engineer at Ford Motor Company in Michigan. Back in 2018, Anurag was going through a rough patch – a painful break-up. One April evening, his cousin asked him to join him on a backpacking trip. Anurag had never backpacked, and his first altercation with the mountains was at Havasu Falls in the Grand Canyon, Arizona. In the wilderness for three days, a realisation dawned — he needed to keep busy, and stay away from distractions. Thereafter, the 29-year-old was a changed man who chose to live life on the edge, literally.

Mountaineer | Anurag Nallavelli | First Civilian To Climb 8000m

In 2020, he was to go to Nepal to trek to Mt Everest’s base camp with a friend, and visit his parents. However, the pandemic struck, and his plans went awry. So, he took a month off from work and went to Colorado on a 500-mile trail. “I met other hikers, camped with them and that journey was life-changing. I moved to Oregon to do more,” informs Anurag, who finished his schooling from Narayana Concept School in Hyderabad.

Mount Hood in Oregon was his first adrenaline rush, using ice tools while tarrying through the tough route (Pearly Gates/Old Chute). He later climbed Mt Hood as many as 11 times and Mount Rainier twice — all in the peak of winter.

Mountaineer | Anurag Nallavelli | First Civilian To Climb 8000m

“My climbing partner’s dream was to climb Denali and we decided to attempt it without a guide. Before Denali, I underwent altitude training in Colorado and even stayed in Leadville (at 10,200 feet, it is the highest city in the US) to acclimatise. We climbed some peaks above 14,000 feet during my training in August 2021,” says Anurag, who went to college in Canada. Eventually, he and his friend climbed Denali in June 2021. “I felt stronger, physically and mentally, and then wanted to try something more challenging,” says the techie, who moved to the US in 2015 where he did his Master’s in information technology from Southern New Hampshire University.

Mountaineer | Anurag Nallavelli | First Civilian To Climb 8000m

The Himalayas call out to him

He planned to visit the Himalayas, and attempt to summit an 8,000-metre peak. "As a kid, I was always fond of the Himalayas. Stories of the presence of Lord Shiva always fascinated me. But I had just returned from Denali and could not financially afford to pay for a full-support expedition which cost $20,000. I decided to take only basecamp support as it was going to be a 30 to 40-day expedition,” recalls Anurag, which took care of logistics and food. For everything else, he was on his own. Not having a sherpa is not the norm in these gruelling expeditions. “I read a book No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks by Ed Viesturs and David Roberts. Viesturs was the first American to do all 14,8000 m peaks without supplemental oxygen. That book motivated me to experience the death zone without using supplemental oxygen,” says the ardent climber.

Finally in September, he did the impossible by conquering Manaslu sans supplemental oxygen and Sherpa. “I have made up my mind to climb without supplemental oxygen, no backup if something goes wrong. If I feel unwell during climbs, I would rather come down, instead of using oxygen to summit,” says Anurag, who also scaled Pico de Orizaba, the highest point in Mexico and third highest peak in North America besides the 20-plus 14,000 feet peaks while training for Manaslu.

Mountaineer | Anurag Nallavelli | First Civilian To Climb 8000m

The self-taught mountaineer has no formal training. He has been working in the US since 2015, and has his own set of physical and mental exercises - hiking/climbing peaks with a 50-60 pound (23-27 kg) backpack, rock climbing twice a week and biking at 10,000 feet elevation, camping in bad weather, cold showers, and sleeping on the floor.

The techie's home base is an animal sanctuary in California. “This is my happy place,” quips the mountaineer, who is currently reading Nimsdai’s Beyond Possible. A big movie buff, before the US, Anurag worked at VFX Studios in Hyderabad. “I worked as a compositor for over a year, and worked on a couple of Telugu movies.”

Mountaineer | Anurag Nallavelli | First Civilian To Climb 8000m

Next on his list is Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Makalu back-to-back with no supplemental oxygen in March/April 2022. “I have already begun training for it,” informs the February 1992 born, who considers ace shuttler PV Sindhu as his favourite Global Indian.

 

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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