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Maitreyee Wairagkar | Global Indian
Global IndianstoryMaitreyee Wairagkar : Changing the world with neurotechnology
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Maitreyee Wairagkar : Changing the world with neurotechnology

Written by: Vikram Sharma

(November 7, 2022) Maitreyee Wairagkar likes to discover things which the world has never discovered before. From social robots to assist dementia patients in their homes, a social robotic telemedicine platform for clinicians to provide dementia therapy sessions remotely to developing Kinect sensor-based language and motor rehabilitation therapy for stroke victims — the neuroscientist and neuro engineer has done it all.

A deep dive into neurotechnology

Can a wheelchair be controlled merely by thinking about moving your right hand to make it turn right or thinking about your left hand to make it turn left? Well, that is coming soon! “I am currently developing invasive BCI (Brain Computer Interfaces) that can help people speak directly through their brain signals recorded by tiny brain implants. This will be useful for people who have lost the ability to speak due to ALS, stroke or severe brain injury,” smiles Maitreyee Wairagkar, speaking exclusively to Global Indian.

Dr Maitreyee Wairagkar is at the forefront of neurotechnology and neuroengineering research

Maitreyee, who is currently a postdoctoral scholar at the University of California, Davis (in the Neurporosthetics Lab and BrainGate Consortium) was recently nominated for the prestigious ‘Inspiring Women in Science’ award (2022) by leading scientific journal ‘Nature’ in partnership with Estée Lauder. She is the only Indian on the list of early career women scientists to have been nominated for the award.

“Neurotechnologies are different types of technologies and devices that interface with the brain or the nervous system and help people with severe neurological conditions such as stroke, quadriplegia, Parkinson’s disease, spinal cord injury, brain injury, ALS (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis) etc., many of which do not have a cure yet,” explains Maitreyee, who has worked on developing different types of neurotechnologies targeted at different neurological conditions.

I am currently developing invasive BCI (Brain Computer Interfaces) that can help people speak directly through their brain signals recorded by tiny brain implants. This will be useful for people who have lost the ability to speak due to ALS, stroke or severe brain injury.  – Dr Maitreyee Wairagkar

Where it all began

Growing up in Pune, Maharashtra in a family with strong scientific background, workings of the human brain always fascinated Maitreyee. When she was 14, she learned about conditions that can render people in a locked-in state, where their cognition and awareness is intact, but their body is fully paralysed — they can neither move nor speak.

“I would sit beside my mother and study while she prepared her lectures. I would often hear from my father about his research and his papers published in Lancet since my early childhood. He would tell me how scientists work and share their findings in scientific journals which was very inspiring,” says Maitreyee, who always wanted to study brain and neuroscience.

Her father, Dr Niteen Wairagkar, is a doctor and scientist working in global health and mother is a science educator with double postgraduate in sciences.

Leaving home

After completing her 12th standard from Pune, she began exploring options to study cutting edge technologies like BCIs and zeroed in on the University of Reading in the UK. It offered a unique integrated undergraduate and master’s degree course in Artificial Intelligence and cybernetics.

It was very unusual decision to go abroad to study for an undergraduate degree at that time as most Indian students went abroad for master’s degree.

Since starting her undergraduate studies at the University of Reading in 2010, Maitreyee has built different neurotechnologies that help in rehabilitation after brain injury or stroke and even assist them in day to-day-life.

Dr Maitreyee receives her PhD at the University of Reading. Photo: Twitter

Communicating through brain signals

“People with severe neurological conditions such as ALS (like theoretical physicist Stephen Hawking) eventually lose their ability to speak. Not being able to communicate can be absolutely devastating,” says Maitreyee.

The BCIs which she is working on can potentially restore this lost ability to speak by decoding speech related patterns from neural activity and converting it to audible speech. The user can talk through a computer merely by attempting to speak. “The BCI records the corresponding neural activity via electrodes implanted in the brain area that controls the movement of muscles involved in speech production — tongue, jaw, lips etc. which is then decoded and converted to speech using advanced AI models,” she explains, describing it as a new mode of communication directly via brain signals.

“My ultimate goal is to build BCIs using which no one will ever lose their ability to speak and communicate,” she says, giving a glimpse into what the future holds for such patients.

Invasive and non-invasive BCIs

Her previous BCI work used non-invasive electrodes to record brown signals from the surface of the scalp to identify the intention to move, allowing them to control a computer game using brain signals.

“This is useful for people who have lost the function of their arms,” says Maitreyee, who excelled in academics and won several awards including Chancellor’s awards and graduation awards for best performance at University of Reading.

Unlike non-invasive BCIs, the invasive variety requires implanting electrodes on the surface of brain via neurosurgery to read brain signals. It can even enable more advanced capabilities like speaking and complex movements. Invasive BCIs are expensive but have better performance and enable faster communication.

Therapists at #RehabWeek really love our new MALT product that combines exergames with language training to help treat #aphasia. The concept was orginally developed by our collaborators @ABCDlab_Reading @rachelmccrindle and @Maitreyee_W to make #stroke rehab fun and effective. pic.twitter.com/Bzknhf3qyP

— Evolv (@Virtualrehab_en) June 27, 2019

Social robots

Designed to speak with people with dementia, the social robots can collect daily information on their health and well-being, to be assessed by a clinical team, thereby also improving their engagement.

Maitreyee won the UK Dementia Research Institute pilot award for early career researcher to support her work on social robotics in dementia and MedTech SuperConnector accelerator funding to lead social robotics entrepreneurial venture.

Kinect therapy

The Kinect sensor-based language and motor rehabilitation therapy for stroke can be used by patients to do physiotherapy and language therapy gamified exercises at home to regain lost movement in arm and language abilities due to a stroke. “This technology was commercialised and is now available in multiple countries,” informs Maitreyee, who was chosen in the global list of 50 Women in ‘Robotics you need to know,’ 2022.

Social robots and Kinect-based rehabilitation device are also relatively low cost as these use commercially available devices such as tablets, mobile devices, voice assistants and camera sensors. Low-cost neurotech devices that can be affordable to people all around the world is on Maitreyee’s to-do list.

She however says that none of these technologies replace the role of human carers and clinicians. “It enables humans to provide better and efficient care to people with neurological conditions focused on improving quality of life,” says Maitreyee.

Collaborations

Research is a team endeavour and cannot happen in isolation, says Maitreyee, who collaborated with multidisciplinary teams of international researchers from USA, UK and India from engineering and neuroscience backgrounds; medical professionals including neurosurgeons, psychiatrists and medical specialists.

To understand the neurological conditions and medical requirements, she also collaborated with engineers, designers and industrial partners to work on commercial translation of these technologies. “Most importantly, there are patients who give their valuable time to participate in our experiments and help test the devices we build for long periods, even undergoing neurosurgery for brain implants,” informs Maitreyee, who works at the interface of artificial intelligence, machine learning, signal processing, robotics, software development, neuroengineering and neuroscience to build these technologies.

Therapists at #RehabWeek2019 who treat #aphasia were really impressed with how we’re using exergames to help treat language impairment and at the same time promote motor activity. Thanks to @ABCDlab_Reading @rachelmccrindle @Maitreyee_W for collaborating on the new MALT product! pic.twitter.com/LYgd2QgMKI

— Evolv (@Virtualrehab_en) June 28, 2019

Brain signals

“The brain signals I work work are recorded from either tiny invasive electrodes implanted on the brain that record the activity directly from a small population of neurons, or the non-invasive EEG sensors placed on the surface of the scalp recording aggregate brain activity from different areas of the brain,” explains the genius.

These signals capture very complex structure of the underlying neural activity. “My research is focused on identifying patterns in this neural activity that correspond to the intention of the user,” she says adding that one still does not fully understand how this “gigantic mesh of interconnected neurons in our brain gives rise to such complex cognitive behaviours and fine control of our body.”

Looking ahead

“I want to continue building more effective brain-computer interfaces that can potentially give more control to people with severe neurological conditions to speak, move, see, and interact with different devices naturally by restoring their lost abilities which will enable them to participate in the society and lead more independent lives,” says Maitreyee.

She wants to work towards bringing these technologies out of the lab settings and make it available for clinical and personal use to people who would benefit from this the most. Her stroke rehabilitation device has already been commercialised.

“Being a researcher, I am working on something new and exciting every day. There are a lot of scientific discussions and brainstorming sessions with our team,” informs the neuroscientist, who does quite a bit of reading to keep herself up to date with the latest scientific literature.

“Once I have novel results, I focus on writing scientific papers to publish my findings. I also work on writing funding applications. I prepare and give several presentations at conferences which involves some travel,” says Maitreyee, for whom almost every waking hour in the day is spent on research activities and thinking about innovative ways in which she can solve problems she is working on.

When not immersed in her research, she likes to draw and paint in her spare time. “I enjoy making sketches of places I have visited,” says the trained classical Bharatnatyam dancer.

 

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  • artificial intelligence
  • brain-computer interface
  • Dr Maitreyee Wairagkar
  • neurotechnology
  • University of California
  • University of Reading

Published on 07, Nov 2022

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Sunil Kumar, provost and senior vice president at @JohnsHopkins, has been appointed Tufts University’s next president, starting July 1, 2023. https://t.co/sUMZEr8j0l pic.twitter.com/wNHuiIhFWP

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[caption id="attachment_31978" align="aligncenter" width="625"] Sunil Kumar tufts Sunil Kumar is an Indian-origin academician[/caption]

Kumar, who will take over as the 14th president of Tufts University coming July, knows that his mission is to produce well-rounded individuals - something he missed out on being an engineering student. When he moved to Illinois, he discovered through the library what he had missed by not having a liberal arts education. "What matters is to develop the mind and to strengthen the heart. And for that liberal arts education is essential," he added.

 

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Monika Dharia | GreenGear Supply Co | Global Indian

The Call to Action

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Transforming Vision into Reality

Initially, Dharia planned to distribute her EcoRain ponchos exclusively at Duke, but it didn’t take long for her to recognize a larger market. “I started thinking of all the places where ponchos are used—stadiums, amusement parks, national parks. The environmental impact was staggering,” she said. In 2018, Dharia co-founded GreenGear Supply Company with Russell Heller, a fellow advocate for sustainable business models.

 

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A post shared by GreenGear Supply Co. (@greengearsupply)

The path wasn’t straightforward. “Early on, I learned that not every piece of advice needs to be followed,” Dharia shared. Participation in the Melissa and Doug Entrepreneurs Program helped her refine her business instincts. “When you’re developing your own idea, you’re your own CEO. Trusting your ambitions and experiences is key.”

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View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by GreenGear Supply Co. (@greengearsupply)

The donations marked a turning point for GreenGear, reinforcing Dharia’s belief in the social impact of her business. “It reminded us why we started this journey in the first place—to solve real-world problems,” she said.

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Monika Dharia | GreenGear Supply Co | Global Indian

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Monika Dharia | GreenGear Supply Co | Global Indian

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s not just a way to reminisce the life back home but also a symbol of cultural representation for the young South Asians trying to find their identity in a new land.

Around the same time, a surge in migration of Black African immigrants from Nigeria, Ghana, Uganda, Kenya, Zimbabwe, and South Africa gave way to the mingling of South Asians with them. The influence of Afro music - especially hip hop and reggae - on young South Asians gave birth to a new genre - Punjabi Reggae, thus forging an exhilarating path towards artistic redefinition. In the resounding fusion of Bhangra and the captivating cadences of reggae, an alchemical transformation occurred, breathing life into a cultural narrative long yearning to be heard.

Preserving Desi culture

The 1980s and 90s saw the arrival of Bhangra music in the UK, thanks to artists like Alaap, Heera, and Apache Indian who were fusing Punjabi folk music with hip hop. Bhangra music bands started spurting in the corners of the UK to preserve desi culture in Britain, and among them a Southall band Alaap was the forerunner of this new genre. Singer Channi Singh's voice mixed Western beats and Punjabi lyrics made for a deadly combination, resulting in Alaap's huge success in the 80s.

[caption id="attachment_40162" align="aligncenter" width="510"]Bhangra band Alaap Bhangra band Alaap[/caption]

The emergence of Daytime Discos

But with conservative parents at home, going to nightclubs and discos wasn't an option for the young British Indians. This void gave birth to the concept of Daytime Discos, a cultural phenomenon that was a hit among the youth as they enjoyed dancing to music and made it home in time for evening tea. Hundreds of teenagers skipped schools and colleges to hear their favourite bands and DJs play at Daydiscos, and Bradford became the epicentre of the underground scene. Rani Kaur, who was popular as DJ Radical Sista in those days, told BBC, "At the time there was very little in terms of Asian cultural stuff in the mainstream, we would get the odd programme on TV but it was more geared to the older generation. There was a gap and there was a thirst for something to fill it, so daytimers just rocketed. It was about creating a new identity for Asians in the UK that had not existed before."

[caption id="attachment_40158" align="aligncenter" width="640"]Punjabi British Bhangra | Global Indian DJ Radical Sista played at many Daytime discos in Bradford in the 80s. (Photo: Tim Smith)[/caption]

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An identity shift

In the early 1990s, a group of young British Indians grappling with their identity confronted a unique solution within the confines of their garages: blending music. Caught between their British upbringing and their Indian heritage, these individuals pioneered a new sound known as British Bhangra music, which served as a bridge connecting both cultures. This musical fusion not only became a creative outlet but also played a pivotal role in shaping a bicultural identity. One man in the middle of this new phenomenon was Baljit Singh Sagoo aka Bally Sagoo, whose 1991 compilation Star Crazy put bhangra on the global music map. Fusing traditional Punjabi folk songs with reggae music is what made Laung Gwacha an instant hit. "This particular track (Laung Gwacha, feat. Rama & Cheshire Cat) was a Punjabi reggae song, it was an experiment, where the Asian kids went crazy and everybody thought we need some stuff like this.”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgLI7ginjPM&list=PLgOfaFz80L2ZdQYEyQ1ZIm-FhyfElgKCt&index=5

Growing up in Birmingham, Sagoo was heavily influenced by the vibrant black music scene that surrounded him, encompassing genres such as hip-hop, soul, and reggae. This diverse musical environment left an indelible mark on his compositions. During this time, young British Indians discovered a newfound sense of identity through the emergence of Punjabi reggae music. Another notable figure making waves in the music industry with his fusion of Punjabi reggae was songwriter-singer and DJ Steven Kapoor, known as Apache Indian. Songs like Chock There and Boom Shack A Lak became anthems for the MTV generation, blending reggae with bhangra. "When I first went into the studio, I didn’t want it to be just reggae, so we put a bit of the Punjabi rhythm in there - the first-time bhangra was being fused musically, just like our lifestyles," Apache told the Guardian.

[caption id="attachment_40160" align="aligncenter" width="705"]Apache Indian | Global Indian Steven Kapur aka Apache Indian[/caption]

The popularity of the genre gave way to new singers and artists who not only became popular in the UK but created a stir back in India too. As the British-Asian population expanded and diversified around the mid-90s, it was Bhangra that kept the communities together. "The eighties London sound was a bit more innovative, open to Hindi and other Asian music, whereas Birmingham was desi because the community was solid, Punjabi and Sikh. It had an authentic rawness whereas London’s was more poppy popular. Today, a lot more kids in London are sampling grime and hip hop and doing remixes of bhangra classics than in the Midlands," Bobby Friction told the daily.

British Bhangra music embarked on a remarkable journey that began in the 1970s when it first arrived on the shores of Britain. Initially, it catered primarily to the South Asian diaspora, but its infectious rhythms and captivating melodies soon resonated with a wider audience. By the 1980s and 1990s, British Bhangra had reached its pinnacle when it took the form of Punjabi Reggae, captivating both British and global music enthusiasts.

Bhangra Music | Global Indian

This unique genre not only provided a soundtrack for celebration and cultural expression but also became a lifeline for young British Indians searching for a sense of identity. It bridged the gap between their British upbringing and their Indian heritage, offering a harmonious blend of sounds that reflected their bicultural experiences. Its influence reverberated throughout the music industry, permeating genres and captivating listeners worldwide well into the 2000s. Its legacy continues to inspire and enrich the musical landscape, a testament to the power of cultural fusion and the universal language of music.

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A post shared by HASORA 🌱Happy Organic Food🌱 (@hasoraindia)

Mai and Asuka Hatta, Japanese twins from Chiba Prefecture, have created a unique narrative in India with their venture, Hasora. Forgoing opportunities in the US and Japan, their journey in India began with Mai's job in an NGO in Dehradun and Asuka's decision to join her sister. In 2016, they launched Hasora to address a gap they observed: the difficulty expats faced in finding fresh, safe Japanese vegetables. Simultaneously, they sought to improve the plight of local farmers affected by intermediary exploitation. Hasora partners with organic vegetable farmers, aiming to revolutionize the supply chain with a farm-to-table model. They also engage in the "Oishii Nippon Project," helping farmers cultivate Japanese vegetables, thus merging cultural appreciation with agricultural innovation.

"It was my destiny; I followed my passion, my heart," Mai says, of her deep bond with India. The name Hasora, meaning 'green leaves under the blue sky' in Japanese and resonating with the Hindi 'Hasna' (to laugh), captures the essence of their venture—promoting growth and happiness. Beyond their online platform, their Gurgaon outlet is a cultural fusion hub, offering a range of Japanese and Korean specialties alongside Indian staples. With Mai's culinary skills and a Japanese chef, they cater to a diverse clientele, while championing sustainable farming practices and economic empowerment for local farmers.

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Viktoria Burenkova – Tandava in Kyiv

 

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A post shared by Vijaya Bai | Вікторія (@vijaya.bai)

Viktoria Burenkova, known as Vijaya Bai on stage, is a dedicated Bharatanatyam dancer and teacher in Kyiv, Ukraine. Despite the challenges of Russia's invasion, she continues to uplift spirits through this ancient Indian dance form. For ten years, she has been a key figure at Nakshatra, a 'National Studio' recognized by Ukraine's Ministry of Culture.

"Our lives were steeped in classical music, dance, and yoga," says Viktoria, reflecting her deep connection with Indian arts. She credits her guru, Ganna Smirnova Rajhans, for her Bharatanatyam journey. With Ganna's relocation, Viktoria now leads Nakshatra, adapting performances to Ukrainian audiences.

Her classes, both online and offline, have been a source of strength during the war. Bharatanatyam is central to her life; she even sews dance costumes. Viktoria's admiration for Indian culture runs deep, evident in her study of Hindi and Telugu. She aims to promote Bharatanatyam in Ukraine and beyond, hoping for a growing community of classical dancers and greater appreciation of the art form.

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David Belo – ‘Bean’ there, done that

[caption id="attachment_47849" align="aligncenter" width="397"] David Belo[/caption]

David Belo's Naviluna, based in Mysuru, is a trailblazer as India's first bean-to-bar chocolate house and the world's first to solely use Indian-origin cacao. Belo, originally from South Africa, found inspiration in India's rich cacao diversity. “The relationship between South Africa’s early beginnings, my own community, trade, food, and drink is as rich as it is deep,” he says, indicating his diverse culinary influences.

Naviluna's approach to chocolate making is terroir-centric, aimed at highlighting the unique flavors of Indian cacao. This focus extends to their café in Mysore, situated atop their factory in a heritage bungalow, which Belo and his team spent six years restoring. The café emphasizes traditional coffee experiences, featuring classic 1950s Italian-style coffee and chocolate drinks, using premium Arabica coffee sourced from Chikmagalur.

Belo's vision and dedication have steered Naviluna through early challenges, shaping a brand ethos centered on craftsmanship and quality. Naviluna not only crafts fine chocolates but also offers a holistic sensory experience, marrying the art of chocolate making with India's cacao heritage.

Read more here.

Karl Rock – A love story with India

 

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At the age of 17, Karl Rock ate canned butter chicken for the first time. "It was horrible stuff compared to what indian food really is but it blew my mind," says Karl Rock, who is now a top tier content creator with over 2.77 million followers on his YouTube channel and over 184,000 on Instagram.

Whether it's a traditional malpua recipe, or masala chai prepared with his own handground concoction of spices, this adventurous New Zealander can teach most Indians a thing or two about the diversity and history behind our native cuisine. That, and he also speaks fluent Hindi. He swears by the Chhole Bhature from Gopalji's in Pitampura's Delhi and while the owner guards the recipe closely, Karl has reverse engineered it, saying his version is " 80 percent close to the original.”

From traditional recipes, to remote, little-known dhabas dishing up exquisite fare, remarkable places (like the meteorite crater in Maharashtra), Karl Rock does it all. And his enthusiasm is infectious, coming as it does from someone who was born more than 15,000 miles away, in a culture apparently far-removed from our own...

Mango and Basil: Marriage beyond borders

 

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What do Italians and Indians have in common? Quite a lot, going by Suprateek Banerjee (aka Mango) and his wife, Daniela Barone (basil), the content-creator couple behind @aamandbasil on Instagram. For starters, they “both wake up in the morning thinking about what they’re going to eat,” as Daniela puts it. Close family ties are another similarity – Suprateek was thrilled to learn that Daniela’s grandmother lives at the family home in Naples – “I was like, wow, this is just what we do. Our grandparents live with us in India as well, and we love them like crazy.”

Mango and Basil are an Instagram sensation, with 120k followers and counting, although they only opened their account in February 2023. Their aim - to bring humour into all our cultural quirks, and to bring out similarities you didn't know exist. Basil is shocked to see Mango cooking 'Indian pasta' in a pressure cooker, and downing a cappuccino after lunch. At the heart of it, however, is love, as this star-crossed couple do their best to learn about the culturally rich land to which the other belongs.

Read more here.

Paris Laxmi: Bridging cultures through Bharatnatyam

 

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Born in 1991 in Aix-en-Provence, Paris, whose full name is Myriam Sophia Lakshmi, was born into a family of Indophiles and began training in Bharatnatyam at the age of nine, there was no looking back. She came to India to train, too and and adopted 'Laxmi' as her stage name. It also drew her to her now husband, Pallipuram Sunil, a famous Kathak artist, whom she first watched performed at the age of seven. They became friends years later, united by their love for Indian classical dance and Paris Laxmi made India her home for good in 2012, after her marriage.

The couple run the Kalashakti School of Arts, where they teach their respective dance forms and organise performances and workshops. Their production, 'Sangaman - Krishna Mayam', a fusion of Kathakali and Bharatnatyam, showcasing stories and manifestations of Lord Krishna, has toured all over India, Europe and the Gulf. "So many people from foreign countries wish to learn Indian classical dance now. It is something very rich and unique that India has," she says.

Read more here.

 

Story
Mississippi Masala: Chef Vishwesh Bhatt is serving global food with an Indian touch in America’s South

(December 24, 2023) Moving to the US as a teenager, gradually finding his ikigai and making a success of it are all part of incredible culinary journey of Chef Vishwesh Bhatt. He believes fusion is a dirty word in the world of cuisine, yet masterfully creates dishes that are the epitome of global influences. He considers himself as a Southerner from India and is the Executive Chef at Snackbar, the restaurant he has set up from scratch with his mentor John Currence. Chef Vishwesh Bhatt, originally from Gujarat in India, has reinvented dishes with local ingredients, serves some traditional ones with a twist and has incorporated some of the typical foods of the South into his menu, to great success. [caption id="attachment_47759" align="aligncenter" width="473"] Chef Vishwesh Bhatt[/caption] Making Mississippi Home Living in Oxford, Mississippi, where he came to study for his Master’s, where his father was teaching physics, Vishwesh, or Vish as he is popularly known, made this southern university town his home. In his cookbook, I am from here, Stories and Recipes from a Southern Chef, which won the James Beard award for best cookbook in 2022, he candidly reveals that he did not struggle like other immigrants. In

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nown, made this southern university town his home. In his cookbook, I am from here, Stories and Recipes from a Southern Chef, which won the James Beard award for best cookbook in 2022, he candidly reveals that he did not struggle like other immigrants. In an exclusive with Global Indian, Vish says, “At grad school I realised this is not what I wanted for a career. My mother used to cook a Gujarati thali meal once a week at Harvest Café, a progressive local restaurant in Oxford. She was going to India for the summer and I offered to step in. I found that I enjoyed cooking during those two months. Though I couldn’t roll out chapatis, I knew a couple of things.”

Eventually, the vegetarian Vish overcame his hesitation about meat. He admits, “My parents were okay with it, though it took me a while to summon the courage to try some. This way, I had a lot more choices in food. To date, I like some meats and I don’t eat everything.”

While in Oxford, Vish used to work at a local restaurant called City Grocery, owned by Chef John Currence. Wanting formal training in western basics of cooking, Vish enrolled at a culinary school in Miami, Florida. Following which he took up a job in Denver, Colorado, but always kept a lookout for opportunities in Oxford. He even met his wife Teresa, a nurse, during this time.

Sure enough, in 2002, they got a chance to move back – and he joined City Grocery once again. Vish has been with the City Grocery Restaurant Group ever since. He refers to John Currence, the owner, as “a great boss, a better mentor, and an even better friend.” Currence for his part, in the foreword, shares details about their many travels together over the last 20 years and the deep and abiding bond they share.

[caption id="attachment_47763" align="aligncenter" width="968"]Indian Chef | Vishwesh Bhatt | Global Indian Chef Vishwesh Bhatt with his Snackbar team[/caption]

Fusion or Confusion

Vish became the Executive Chef at Snackbar, launched by Currence in 2009. He says, “It was a neighbourhood bistro-style café. I wrote the menu and it has been my baby from the start.” From typical Creole, French style food, he gradually morphed it by adding more Indian flavours. He says, “The dishes have worked really well over the last 15 years.”

Surprisingly, though Chef Vishwesh Bhatt has served an Okra Chaat with chaat masala and has made upma from grits [ground corn with the texture of idli rawa, very popular in the South], he considers fusion to be a dirty word. He candidly says, “Fusion is a dirty word; because if you observe the evolution of food, some flavours that came together make sense – for example cooking jeera with alu – cumin and potatoes go well. I find that mashing up different ideas just because you are good it without any knowledge of the food doesn’t work. It is more confusion than fusion. Randomly putting cheese on bhelpuri just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.”

The Southerner from India

So how would he describe his cooking style? “Southerners use a lot of greens; and they have a serving of three vegetables with meat. Instead of spinach for example, I make saag with collard greens that are used here. And while they use pork fat, I do a jhonk or tadka with dill and asafoetida in ghee. The same greens then taste different and my customers love it. While making fried chicken, instead of barbecue sauce, I use chhundo [a Gujarati pickle made with grated raw mango] instead. They have similar flavour profiles.” Having said that, Vish does serve dhoklas and khichdi too, and khandvi – described as gram flour noodles – though he draws the line at undhiyo due to the lack of authentic Surti papdi – one of the beans used in making this dish.

His food makes a statement, and the international footprints blending synergistically also won Vish the James Beard Best Chef of the Year [South] in 2019. His mind is always questioning things most of us take for granted. He says, “I wrote the book because I wanted to talk about why these dishes matter to me. I like to dive into history, like how did okra get to America for example.”

And the ingredients he loves to work with? “I enjoy working with okra, eggplant. And I love anything to do with rice. There are so many varieties and ways of cooking it. Across cultures, it is a simple grain with such a complex story.” He uses spices from all over the world too in copious amounts. “I love using cumin and pepper; even as a combination they work well. If you consider the North African spice blends, they are similar to ours, except that the ratios are different. Tunisia, Egypt, Morocco – I like working with their flavours.”

[caption id="attachment_47761" align="aligncenter" width="511"]Indian Chef | Vishwesh Bhatt | Global Indian Chef Vishwesh Bhatt with his book[/caption]

I Am From Here

In the book, Chef Vishwesh Bhatt has talked about growing up in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, in a large family, helping his mother in the kitchen and shopping for fresh vegetables with his father. He has fashioned the book somewhat differently from other cookbooks. Individual chapters are dedicated to rice, catfish [a very popular Southern staple], pork and meat, chicken, prawns and seafood, beans and pulses, potatoes and sweet potatoes, corn and one especially for okra, or bhendi as we know it. There are chapters dedicated to peanuts and greens – more so collard greens – again a southern mainstay.

The recipes are underlined with global influences. From Morocco to Mumbai, Ahmedabad to Afghanistan, Turkey to Trinidad and Italy to Spain – they are all reflected in a glorious coming together of seemingly disparate ingredients, in a medley of tasty and hearty food. The Indian influences are strong though; from recipes for chaat and garam masalas to baingan ka bharta – they co-exist with other international dishes.

Food for Thought

Chef Vishwesh Bhatt is a generous man. In the book, besides sharing his much loved and evergreen recipes like the evergreen hit, Okra Chaat [which stays on his menu all through okra season], he has shared recipes for spice mixes, techniques, and tips about ingredients like coriander seeds, ajwain and asafoetida, explaining how to use them and the best way to do so. Perhaps aimed at the Western reader interested in cooking but unfamiliar with these condiments. There is even a helpful recipe finder segment where he suggests what dish you could make for a picnic lunch to a brunch, a cocktail party, one-pot dinners and weeknight meals.

[caption id="attachment_47762" align="aligncenter" width="531"]Indian Chef | Snackbar | Global Indian A Snackbar preparation[/caption]

In the acknowledgements, he gives credit to all the family members, chefs and other people who have influenced his journey. He mentions using his fellow Southern Chef and friend Meherwan Irani’s spice brand – Spicewalla. For further reading too, he has helpfully shared names of recipe books authored by other chefs. A less secure person would consider that competition!

Global trends in food Vish believes are moving towards Indian food getting appreciated in the way it should be. “Finally, people are realising how good the cuisines of India are. And that they are not a monolith as one. People are becoming more aware of how ingredients have moved and they are also experimenting with spices and condiments like fenugreek, mustard seeds and turmeric.” What’s next? “Working on a second book project,” he concludes, succinctly.

Chef Vishwesh likes to eat:

  • Ponk under the bridge in Surat
  • Thali: At Gopi Dining Hall and Ashrafi Kulfi in Ahmedabad
  • O Pedro: almost all of the menu
  • Bombay Canteen: Thepla tacos
  • Ashok Vada Pav: Vada Pav [both in Mumbai]
  • Any of the Unapologetic Restaurants Group’s restaurants in NYC
  • South Indian at Semma
  • Bheja Fry at Dhamaka
  • Compere Lapin: Any pasta dish and the Goat Curry
  • Gautreau’s: The fresh fish of the day or Crab Remoulade
  • Mr Mao in New Orleans: Snacks
  • Botiwalla in Atlanta: Kathi Roll, Dahi Sev Purii

Follow Chef Vishwesh on Instagram

 

Reading Time: 5 mins

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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