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Coffee boom in India
Global IndianstoryThe Coffee Boom: The Rise of Coffee and Café Culture in India
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The Coffee Boom: The Rise of Coffee and Café Culture in India

Written by: Global Indian

(September 16, 2021) A rich dark liquid has captured the imagination of an entire generation, greasing the wheels of economies across the globe. Not only is it one of the most traded commodities, there are legitimate fears that its demand may outweigh supply. But, for now, there’s there’s just enough for everyone to enjoy. No, we’re not talking about oil, but coffee.

In India alone, more than two million cups of coffee are consumed every day, and for many, kick-starting their day without it is non-negotiable. Whether it is getting on the Dalgona coffee bandwagon (a pandemic favorite), or the daily brew at home, India’s coffee lovers’ choice in brew range from the traditional filter kaapi in the South to the average instant powders available in local stores. 

Coffee

Café & coffee culture has become a sensation in the recent past

In fact, coffee as a culture has permeated into the homes of young millennials and Gen-Zers in India. To them, a cup of Starbucks coffee is more than just a morning pick-me-up, it is a statement. The Gen Z generation continues to ride a trend that has been popular for a while now: They do not only want their coffee, but an experience to go along with it. 

Here’s what a new generation of coffee drinkers want from their cup of ‘joe:

Transparency

Millennials and Gen Z are not only concerned with great-tasting coffee, they both also want to know if the coffee brand they patronize is making positive contributions to the world through social initiatives. Whether it is sustainability or community-based programs, transparency is what drives them to back a brand. They also want a story they can associate with, one that involves a clear brand ethos that they can promote on Instagram, along with their coffee cup and croissant. This has prompted coffee shops, which serve as a conduit between coffee labels and consumers, to invest heavily in creating an experience through packaging, merchandise and Instagrammable décor. 

Coffee boom in India

Is your coffee Instagram friendly?

Top quality

Millennials and Gen Zers have tall expectations when it comes to consuming quality organic food that’s sourced and produced both ethically and sustainably. Whether it is visiting a coffee shop and purchasing an Americano, a croissant, or even a sourdough sandwich that they may pick up for lunch, this generation of coffee drinkers expect their beverage offerings to come from quality sources that don’t harm the environment at large. 

Healthy alternatives

The current generation is all about buzzwords. Most Gen Zers are quick to read labels on coffee packaging before they spend their hard-earned money. Catch-words like all-natural, low-calorie, organic, vitamin-enhanced, among others, are what grabs this generation’s interest. There’s pressure on coffee shops to stock clearly-labelled healthy choices on their shelves. 

Cold brew, a hot trend

Over the past few years, chilled beverages, and we’re talking iced coffee, have become a big hit with the current generation, who are driving sales for great quality, specialty coffee concoctions. According to a research conducted by Millennial Marketing, it was established that: 

  • Millennials consume twice as much iced coffee as compared to Generation X.
  • Millennials have been instrumental in bumping up the popularity of cold brew sales, resulting in exponential revenue. 
  • Most millennials prefer an iced latte over other variants.

It is important to note that the demand for chilled gourmet coffee products has also stoked the trend for cold brew coffee, among millennials and Gen Zers. Cold brew, which is not necessarily a standard cup of coffee, is a lot cooler and is extracted through a slower extraction method (typically 24 to 48 hours) that helps make the bean flavors more potent, while minimizing the bitter bite and acidic jolt that is usually associated with a regular cup of coffee. It helps take the coffee to another level, from a staple to an artisan or craft beverage that is in conjunction with the flavor profiles millennials want. It is also about higher-quality ingredients and flavor experiences.

Coffee boom in India

If you draw your attention to Indian coffee globally, the quality of Indian coffee has a darker share, which is not appreciated enough. In fact, most of us aren’t even aware that India is the sixth largest coffee exporter worldwide. A brand-new wave of cafes and coffee retailers are not only restricting themselves to roasting and serving quality coffee but are committed to providing customers the option to choose their beans and brew them through various techniques. In fact, a number of them are taking things up a notch by organizing coffee-centered events. Therefore, it’s safe to say that Indian coffee culture has not only fueled conversations about the brew, but has become the center of the conversation itself. 

 

 

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  • cafe culture in India
  • coffee
  • coffee culture in India
  • Global Indian
  • Indian coffee

Published on 16, Sep 2021

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ndian.com//wp-content/uploads/2022/03/IMG-20220228-WA0035.jpg" alt="Hafez Raman | Akshay Raveendran | Athey Nallatha | Global Indian" width="429" height="644" /> Indian entrepreneur Hafez Raman, co-founder, Athey Nallatha[/caption]

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In college, Hafez studied photonics at the Cochin University of Science and Technology and did his research at IIT Bombay. "I also had a passion for writing, so I became a copywriter." In 2016, he went to do an MBA at the CSMS Cochin School of Business, where he met Akshay.

With his ed-tech company in mind, he began his career as an entrepreneur, creating a set of 'brain-mapping' tools to implement in schools. Based on psychologist Howard Gardner's Theory of Multiple Intelligences, the "tools can help us tap the brain better," Hafez explains.

[caption id="attachment_21059" align="aligncenter" width="724"]Hafez Raman | Akshay Raveendran | Athey Nallatha | Global Indian Hafez Raman and Akshay Raveendran, co-founders, Athey Nallatha[/caption]

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It was during the second phase of the lockdown, in September 2020, that the idea for Athey Nallatha came about, based on his mother’s suggestion. "I had tried a number of business ideas by this time, from ed-tech to handlooms. My mother asked why I couldn't start a business that would not be hit by the pandemic and employ people who need the work. She suggested a food startup."

Things fell into place and within a month, the company was up and running. They started out with highly perishable products like salads and fruit punches. "We thought of a subscription plan and a hyperlocal streaming system. We had a pool of delivery boys too, so we were able to proceed," Hafez explains. However, dealing with products that have a shelf life of only one day proved too big a logistical challenge to overcome and finding the right product was imperative. "It couldn't just be any product. There needs to be room for it in the market and the timing has to be just right." That's when he remembered his mother's pickles," he adds.

Behind the recipe

Why pickles? "There's a story behind it," Hafez smiles. His mother, Aneesa Ashraf, grew up in a household where money was a struggle. Her brother was forced to quit studying and find a job; like so many Keralites, he decided on the UAE. "He was a lot younger than my mother and she didn't want him to feel homesick, so she would make pickles for him." All this took place much before Hafez was born – but the pickles were an instant hit. "She would use meat, vegetables and her own masalas – they actually resembled a curry more than a pickle," he remarks.

[caption id="attachment_21058" align="aligncenter" width="605"]Hafez Raman | Akshay Raveendran | Athey Nallatha | Global Indian The founders of Athey Nallatha, Hafez Raman (left) and Akshay Raveendran, with Hafez's mother, Aneesa[/caption]

Hungry for change

As they embarked on an extensive period of research, Hafez and Akshay uncovered less-than savoury details about the packaged food industry in India. "There wasn't a single mainstream player in the market dealing with quality products. I know because I ran a series of biological tests on them," he says, adding, "We're all eating poor quality food and because the pickles are so heavily masked with masalas and salt, we can't tell the difference." The prawns used in pickles, for instance, can sometimes be up to two years old by the time they make it to your plate. Undercutting costs by investing in poor quality ingredients, like buying export-reject shrimp from major companies or the most dilute asafoetida available in the market – the industry was rife with shoddy business practices. It only made him more determined to carve his own path.

Athey Nallatha began as a set of fragmented units, with a number of middle-aged women all pitching in to make their pickles. "At first, my mother and my friend's mother joined us to produce 60 bottles a day," the Indian entrepreneur says. Three months later, Chemmeen, the aforementioned prawn and papaya pickle was a bestseller. It was quickly becoming clear that working out of his home kitchen wouldn't suffice any longer. "We started with two mothers and grew to four," Hafez remarks. "It was time to move to a bigger kitchen."

Social impact

By this time, they had attracted media attention, with a business model that walks the fine line between profits and making social change. Employing women ensured jobs for a number of people who had lost theirs due to the pandemic. "We had many mothers approach us, not just to get into the manufacturing side but also for sales. They wanted to be a part of it because they could feel the difference,” he says of his employment model that set the company apart, adding, “I realised that I needed to build a community.” His company now employs over 100 women.

Hafez Raman | Akshay Raveendran | Athey Nallatha | Global Indian

The cryptocurrency route

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A love for cooking honed early also awakened an entrepreneurial spirit. At 17, Vikas started a catering business with his mother. Hotel management at Manipal (Karnataka) further honed his culinary skills. Then came a slew of stints that were to give him a strong foundation - Taj, Oberoi, Welcomgroup, and Leela Group of Hotels. He rubbed shoulders with some of the world’s most famous chefs, including Gordon Ramsay, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and others. Dreaming big meant going to the Big Apple -- New York (2000). “I think when any immigrant goes to America, there is a feeling of resistance. You feel you are not a part of the city’s fabric. Many think that we have arrived if we have a fake accent or make occasional friends. I find that an extremely superficial way to become part of the country you choose to live in,” explains the enterprising Michelin-starred chef.

[caption id="attachment_23373" align="aligncenter" width="505"]Michelin-starred chef | Vikas Khanna Vikas Khanna[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_23372" align="aligncenter" width="697"]Michelin-starred chef | Vikas Khanna Feed India Initiative by Vikas Khanna[/caption]

That simple aspiration of “do whatever I can” became the hugely successful and helpful movement Feed India. Vikas messaged requesting people to connect him with the needy for food and dry rations on social media. Like-minded humanitarians joined in from all corners. He partnered with India’s National Disaster Relief Force for logistical, and on-the-ground support. Aid from grocery vendors, tech firms, and offers of industrial kitchen spaces from across India poured in. “I am proud that we continued to grow despite the challenges - distance, time-zone and lack of adequate resources. It was the most gratifying,” says the enterprising Michelin-starred chef of the Feed India initiative that fed over 50 million. Then in May 2021, Khanna got busy organising the “world’s largest Eid feast” in Mumbai. His mission? Feeding 1.75 lakh during the first wave.

Khanna authored a book on his initiatives Barkat: The Inspiration and the Story Behind One of World's Largest Food Drives FEED INDIA which released in December 2021.

Michelin-starred chef | Vikas Khanna

The Made in India brand

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A post shared by Vikas Khanna (@vikaskhannagroup)

"Something that is on a plate is now in a bottle - the beauty of the spices is enhanced to a new level," he adds. The intrepid New Yorker has been on a mission - to highlight Indian culture, cuisine, art and history, globally with great success - owning Indian restaurants the world over, writing books, hosting cookery shows. And it’s just the beginning of his swan song. “I never feel satisfied. I choose projects which are significant, not for their longevity but for their meaning. I think that is my mission - Anything that highlights Indian culture, history, ethos, our pain and triumphs. I don’t feel anything as an accomplishment as everything is a work in progress. I am constantly rediscovering myself and reinventing myself. It's a hard job,” laughs the enterprising Michelin-starred chef who is optimistic about new ideas – no matter the brickbats.

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Turning filmmaker

 

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A post shared by Vikas Khanna (@vikaskhannagroup)

The year 2020 saw the Indian release of Vikas’s first directorial venture The Last Color based on the chef’s novel of the same name. It is the story of the bond between Noor, a 70-year-old widow (played by Neena Gupta) and Chhoti, a Dalit street performer (Aqsa Siddiqui), in Vrindavan, UP, where destitute widows are mostly abandoned. The film bagged the best feature film and best actress award at the Indian International Film Festival of Boston in 2019.
“I always try to find ways to tell the story of pain, and respective triumphs of people back home,” says the enterprising Michelin-starred chef. What of critics? “Of course, I will be criticised - taking up a new trade at 50. Yet, I feel it encourages others who had dreams, to tell their own story,” he says.

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obalindian.com//wp-content/uploads/2022/01/201106_Vaasu_MewariKhaasMaas_004.jpg" alt="Indian Chef | Atul Kochhar | Michelin-starred Chef" width="402" height="560" />

The big break

When Kochhar was growing up in the steel city of Jamshedpur in Jharkhand, he already understood what food was all about as his family ran a small catering business. When the time came to decide on a career, he was clear about one thing — no engineering or medicine for him. Instead, he enrolled in the Institute of Hotel Management Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition (Chennai) and, slowly gave the culinary world a food philosophy that has only gotten better.

After he graduated from IHM, Kochhar’s career took off – as sous chef at The Oberoi, New Delhi (1993). In just a year, he had embraced epicurean wisdom, and understood the fundamentals of fine-dining. For a young sincere Kochhar, it was time to start dreaming big. His big break came in 1994. “I moved to the UK in 1994 to work under the guidance of renowned chef Bernard Kunig,” recalls the Indian Michelin-starred chef. He joined Tamarind, the newly-opened Indian restaurant at London’s famed Mayfair area. “When I arrived in London, Tamarind had just opened. But I relished the challenges thrown in. Moving to a new city was certainly a test that has paid off. When you keep the faith, you can achieve anything,” smiles the Michelin-starred chef.

Putting Indian cuisine on global map

Atul Kochhar might have been away from India for over 30 years, but his intrinsic Indianness has matured, be it personally, or in the taste trail he conjures up. Deeply researched cuisines with a tip of the hat to tradition and technique, the palette of Indian spice is diverse and nuanced. Kochhar’s restaurant Kanishka’s offerings are case in point. His special chicken tikka pie - the famous Punjabi dish served in a puff pastry or maas, a Sikkim-inspired venison tartare with mustard oil mayonnaise, naan crouton and onions, spiced scallops, Tibetan lobster thukpa and grilled pigeon breast with beetroot ketchup and pine nuts – the flavours endear themselves to the eclectic yet tradition-seeking food connoisseur. Critics also rave about Kochhar’s restaurants and dishes.

Indian Michelin-Starred Chef | The Global Indian

The ‘Michelin’ star

In 2001, Kochhar became one of the first Indian chefs to bag a Michelin star as Tamarind’s head chef. Later. he got the coveted star again for the much-acclaimed Benares. Yet, the soft-spoken chef is modest about these achievements. His focus is on the culinary exploits. “There are no words to describe how it feels to have achieved two Michelin stars but they are also incredibly important rewards that the culinary industry delivers on a daily basis. Like so much in life, as we give to the world, so the world gives back. Who knows what tomorrow will bring?” mulls the artistic chef.

Taking a plunge with Benares

From chef to entrepreneur with Kochhar’s epicurean debut, Benares in London illustrates his journey - heartening yet challenging. Not easy to take a plunge, Kochhar reveals, “Changing my thought process was the biggest challenge. It took time, I made mistakes but I finally got there. I started understanding the left and right of the balance sheet. It’s been quite a journey.”

Today, each Kochhar restaurant is an ode to a delectable spice trail – a unique identity and explorations of cuisines with India as its muse. The unique names, Kochhar explains is because, “I am continuously seeking inspiration from my travels. My restaurants deliver first class food and welcome our guests into inviting environments, so each name means something different to me - that’s very important.”

As for food, creativity is the key, “I take pride in designing dishes to enlighten the palate – mixing the freshest ingredients and a large pinch of imagination,” smiles the chef.

Indian Chef | Atul Kochhar | Michelin-starred Chef

For instance, his focus for Kanishka is on the unexplored cuisine from north-eastern Indian or the so-called Sister States. “The cuisine here is that of elevated simplicity – relying on fantastic quality ingredients,” explains the man.

Since Kanishka, he has opened Mathura in Westminster, and the latest is Masalchi, in the globally renowned entertainment district of Wembley Park. There are plans for more restaurants too. “We are keeping busy! And next we will unveil Riwaz in the market town of Beaconsfield in Buckinghamshire and then probably Riwaz in Tunbridge Wells,” says the perpetual student of culinary tales.

His restaurant Saga in Gurgaon, he owes to his partner, “It’s the genius of my business partner – Vishal Anand, who helped me understand the concept. I am in total awe of the place. I love it,” he says.

Kochhar, the author

Indian Michelin-Starred Chef | The Global Indian

Atul Kochhar has unveiled a world of tastes with each signature dish, so it was only apt that he author his prowess in innumerable cookbooks over the years too. “A cookbook is something to treasure and I relish in sharing exotic but simple recipes on each page,” he adds. His latest cookbook will be on the stands in March 2022 - vegetarian curries exploring recipes from India, Africa and the Middle East. “It’s called Curry Everyday, featuring a mouthwatering selection of vegetarian dishes,” he informs.

Unwinding with family

The family man revels in cooking with his son. “I think he might follow in his father’s footsteps,” predicts the doting father. The celebrity chef is a philanthropist. “I support charities including Great Ormond Street Hospital – which is close to my heart. I have visited Antarctica twice to raise money for the children of Great Ormond Street, as well as standing as an ambassador to the British Asian Trust.”

A celebrity chef, which he brushes off as inconsequential, his meals have been relished by acting greats like Dustin Hoffman, George Clooney and Amitabh Bachchan (and many others). “Fantastic food brings joy and we serve the nation’s favourite chicken curry and some new and lesser-known dishes – all of which put a smile on people’s faces,” says Kochhar, already deep in thought about the flavours he will put together next to evoke a smile, and some satisfied souls – yes, the Kochhar “saga” continues.

 

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around the globe has helped me gain exposure. Now, I am putting that expertise into helping provide solutions to restaurants and food service businesses," adds Cinu.

[caption id="attachment_18213" align="aligncenter" width="399"]Cinu Chandran Chef Cinu Chandran[/caption]

Born in Jalandhar in 1979 to an army officer father and a homemaker mother, Cinu's tryst with cooking was purely accidental as he had dreams of following in the footsteps of his father, and joining the army. However, after two failed attempts, Cinu gave hospitality a go after a family friend coaxed him into it. "It's rather strange that I sat for the exam after a family friend mentioned that I look like a hospitality guy. To escape from the family pressure of what’s next, I sat for the exam and surprisingly cleared it," smiles chef Cinu.

This took him to the Institute of Hotel Management Trivandrum, and within six months, Chandran knew that he had found his true calling. For someone who wasn’t even a home cook, Cinu had to work hard to prove himself. His efforts paid off, and the faculty started noticing his talent. The turning point came when he migrated to the Delhi Institute of Hotel Management in the second year to be closer to family, and also represented his college at the All India Chef competition. "Someone from the judging panel saw my work and approached me for a job as a management trainee at the Casino Hotel in Kochi. That was the beginning of my career," recalls the celebrity chef.

A carte Blanc for Cinu

After a short stint in Kochi, came The Oberoi Grand Kolkata where he mastered the art for three years. Cinu recalls those days as his foundation years. He left the City of Joy in the quest for a better opportunity that brought him to Delhi's Taj Palace before moving to the UK. "I was always into continental food but somehow I was unable to satisfy my curiosity about European food in India and wanted to have a hands-on experience," says Cinu who grabbed the opportunity of working with Michelin-starred chef Raymond Blanc at Brasserie Blanc in Bristol.

 

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A post shared by CINU Chandran (@chef_cinu)

"Working with Blanc was such an enriching experience. I could experiment with dishes like nowhere else, and had so much freedom in creating a dish," beams Cinu with pride. While he loved his time evolving as a chef, moving to the UK put him out of his comfort zone. "Working in the kitchen at Brasserie Blanc was a different experience as it was a very busy concept. Though I did learn a lot, it was tiring. Such was the pressure that I would often skip meals," reveals Cinu.

However, working with fresh produce and exotic ingredients made him love the craft. After gaining experience under Blanc, Cinu left Europe to move to Dubai in 2011 as Chef De Cuisine for the West 14th Steakhouse. In less than two years, he helped the restaurant catapult into the league of the best with Dubai's Best Steakhouse Award 2013. "Moving to Dubai was quite an experience because the food scene was evolving in the country. With almost 80 percent expats being Indians, there has been an ever-growing demand for Indian cuisine. Indian restaurants are popping up at every corner, and that says a lot about the love for the cuisine," says the food consultant.

[caption id="attachment_18214" align="aligncenter" width="418"]Cinu Chandran Chef Cinu Chandran[/caption]

A champion of organic produce and sustainability, Cinu's days at Urban Bistro helped him understand the nuances of environmentally friendly options. "If the food was organic, we equally focussed on using cutlery and packaging that was eco-friendly," says the chef. "I think the pandemic has changed the way people view their health. The realisation of a good diet has finally dawned upon them," notes the chef whose ultimate dream is to start his own restaurant.

While the F&B industry took a major blow during the pandemic, things weren't too bad in Dubai as cloud kitchens and restaurant delivery came up in a big way. The consultant chef did face some project losses during the lockdown.

The 42-year-old calls his entire journey a manifestation of sorts. "Even as a child, I loved sharing stories. I kept on doing that through my food. This love for food took me to television and made me a celebrity. Now, as consultant chef, I help others realise their dream of running a restaurant. This makes me grateful," says the Dubai-based chef who loves unwinding with his three kids.

[caption id="attachment_18215" align="aligncenter" width="487"]Chef Cinu Chandran Chef Cinu Chandran with South African players Graeme Smith and Herschelle Gibbs[/caption]

Of course, when he first decided to become a chef, his parents were against it, "Those were the days when a guy becoming a chef wasn't socially acceptable. But I knew I had to keep going. And now years later, I have made them proud. I think this is the biggest validation for me," he adds.

Any advice for youngsters? "If you think you can enjoy and have some fun in your work, then it's the right thing for you. Don't be influenced by social media. Everything takes time, so take your time to learn and acquire as much knowledge as possible," signs off Cinu.

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Reading Time: 8 min

Story
Atul Kochhar: This British Indian chef is the high priest of progressive and edgy Indian cuisine 

(September 25, 2021) With a genial smile, deft skills in the kitchen and impeccable understanding of flavors and techniques, Chef Atul Kochhar has been winning hearts and palates across the world for decades now. One of the first Indians to bag a Michelin star back in 2001, Kochhar has been a force to reckon with in the culinary circuit with several hugely successful restaurants such as Tamarind, Kanishka, Hawkyns, Indian Essence, and Sindhu to name a few.   With two Michelin stars to his credit, a deep understanding of Indian flavors and cuisine, Kochhar has over the years been considered as a high priest of progressive, edgy Indian food that receives his signature Kochhar touch. And it isn’t just naans, tikka masalas, and butter chicken that curry favor in his restaurants... Kochhar also turns the spotlight on lesser-known Indian cuisines from the Northeast. He tells stories with his food... from the puri aloo tacos to dalim shakarkandhi and the spiced curry leaf martini, his food speaks volumes of India’s culinary heritage and flavors.   [caption id="attachment_11406" align="aligncenter" width="596"] Chef Atul Kochhar in his kitchen[/caption] Indian roots  Born and brought up in Jamshedpur, Kochhar's introduction to the intricacies of the culinary world began early. As a child he would often visit the local markets with his father, a caterer, who

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[caption id="attachment_11406" align="aligncenter" width="596"]Indian-origin chef Atul Kochhar Chef Atul Kochhar in his kitchen[/caption]

Indian roots 

Born and brought up in Jamshedpur, Kochhar's introduction to the intricacies of the culinary world began early. As a child he would often visit the local markets with his father, a caterer, who would introduce him to the art of identifying fresh local ingredients. Kochhar found the colors and smells vibrant and exciting and these trips were some of the highlights of his week. Back home, it was his mother’s kitchen that drew him in. In an interview with the St Regis Magazine, Kochhar says, “I have so many memories of my mother in the kitchen, cooking and showing me how to prepare dishes.” One of his favorite dishes till date is rogan josh, which he says, his mother would make the best. “It’s something my whole family used to enjoy together around the dinner table, so it has a sense of nostalgia for me as well.” 

[embed]https://twitter.com/TVsAndyClarke/status/1440267790166888454?s=20[/embed]

It was but natural that he chose to be a chef. After his diploma in Hotel Management from The Institute of Hotel Management in Chennai, Kochhar embarked on his culinary journey with The Oberoi Group of Hotels in 1989. It was here that he picked up the nuances of Indian cooking and continued to do so until he was hired by a wealthy Delhi family to open Tamarind in London in 1993-94. Back then, the London Indian food scene was dead except for the curry houses.  

Coming into his own 

Tamarind in Mayfair offered a heavily Punjabi menu and worked fairly well; but Kochhar got his first dose of reality check from his father, who’d come over to try his food. Scathing in his remarks, he told Kochhar that the food was neither authentically Indian nor particularly tasty. This, Kochhar says, led him to develop his own style of cooking. He began exploring local ingredients and began experimenting with local fish like salmon, sea bass and other British fish. He also switched to using English lamb over goat and so on. And it clicked. He became one of the first Indian chefs who worked hard to take Indian food global. In 2001, Tamarind won a Michelin star, Atul’s first. That same year, Vineet Bhatia had also bagged a Michelin for his restaurant Rasoi, also in London. With this, Kochhar’s place was firmly established in the culinary world.  

India-origin chef Atul Kochhar

Nine years later he moved out to set up Benares, his own restaurant in partnership with someone from the financial services industry in London’s Berkeley Square. However, things hit a roadblock when the partners ran out of money and opened an unfinished restaurant. A couple of years later things finally stabilized and by then Kochhar too refined his style of cooking and moved away from only Punjabi flavors to offer his own take on food from the rest of India. It worked and Benares too bagged a Michelin in 2007, while Kochhar became a regular on television, appearing on shows such as Curry, Kochhar’s Spice Kitchen, Market Kitchen, Great British Menu and Million Pound Menu. He also began pairing fine wine with Indian food... he would travel to vineyards himself and offer to cook for the owners and then ask them to find wines that would pair with his food. Wine makers also began making special blends to suit the masala heavy Indian food.  

Soon other restaurants followed: Sindhu, Hawkyns, Indian Essence and Kanishka (where he focuses on food from Northeast India).  

[caption id="attachment_11410" align="aligncenter" width="512"]Indian-origin chef Atul Kochhar Atul Kochhar in action[/caption]

A costly misstep 

Things were going well until 2018, when an unthinking tweet by Kochhar sparked a global outrage. Kochhar, who’d sent out the tweet about an episode of Priyanka Chopra’s show Quantico, created a Twitter storm and people thought it was anti-Islamic in tone. Though Kochhar issued unconditional apologies, the damage was done. As the uproar escalated, the hotel where his Dubai restaurant was located ended their association with the chef, and he was also forced out of Benares by his partner.  

However, nothing keeps a good chef down and Kochhar bounced back with a new partner when he launched Kanishka in 2019. By early 2021 he also returned to India with his new restaurant Saga. Spread across two levels overlooking the Golf Course Road in Gurugram, the restaurant is dedicated to storytellers who engage diners with the backstory of every dish and cocktail on the menu. The menu has reimagined recipes from different regions that have gone global... like the Ayam Tikka which has hints of Malay garam masala. 

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMbY00agzzs[/embed]

Giving Back 

The Global Indian that he is, Kochhar has actively been involved in charities like Barnardo’s, Great Ormond Street Hospital, and Save the Children. He is an ambassador for Find Your Feet, an NGO that supports poverty stricken rural areas by developing poverty-relief programs to encourage self-sufficiency and independence.  

 

Reading Time: 10 mins

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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