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How Waris Ahluwalis became a champion of religious tolerance
Global IndianstoryWaris Ahluwalia: The NY-based Sikh designer-actor who has a day dedicated to him for fighting racial discrimination
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Waris Ahluwalia: The NY-based Sikh designer-actor who has a day dedicated to him for fighting racial discrimination

Written by: Global Indian

(August 4, 2021; 9.30 am) Serendipity – something Waris Ahluwalia is not alien to. Be it his first Hollywood film offer, the launch of his boutique store House of Waris or a day in his honor, 47-year-old Ahluwalia has been at the right place at the right time. But the polymath has gone from strength to strength in the last few decades. From fashion to jewelry and films to activism, this Indian American has been a prominent face of it all.

Though many things have happened as an act of fate in this designer and actor’s life, he has always worked for what matters the most to him – standing up for religious tolerance and speaking out against racial discrimination.

But it hasn’t been an easy journey for this boy from Amritsar who made it big on the global stage.

The odd one out in America

It was in Punjab where Ahluwaia’s journey began. Born to a linguistic professor father and a teacher mother in Amritsar, Ahluwalia was all of five when he moved to an American neighborhood in New York with his parents. With no Indians or Sikh friends around, his family made sure to keep him rooted to his Indianness.

 

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A post shared by Waris Ahluwalia (@houseofwaris)

Being a Sikh boy among Americans, he was often made to feel like the odd one out. But Ahluwalia was unperturbed as he was too comfortable in his skin.

“Whenever you’re different, your existence presents a challenge for other people. You’re the odd man out. But I think from an early age I was just comfortable with who I was, largely due to the way I was brought up,” he told NBC.

His lesson in diversity began early when his father named him after his favorite poet Waris Shah. “He didn’t give me a traditional, Indian, Sikh name, which are beautiful names. But it just made an extra point for me. Even within my own community, I didn’t fit in,” added Ahluwalia.

With his roots firm in Indian culture, he opted for political science and liberal arts for his major. After completing his studies, he dabbled in a few creative projects before serendipity hit him at a lavish boutique in Los Angeles.

How serendipity led him to House of Waris and Hollywood

It was at Maxfields that two elaborate self-designed diamond rings that adorned his fingers caught the fancy of its owners. Pleased by the intricate design, they placed their order for the rings, and in no time, the whole bunch was sold out, and the fashion press came calling at his doors. Ahluwalia, who until then had never intended on designing jewelry, started learning the intricacies of the trade and opened his own boutique, House of Waris in 2007. The New York-based boutique has become a one-stop shop for exquisite jewelry, ceramics and textiles which are handcrafted by artisans from across the globe.

If becoming a jewelry designer was a beautiful accident, his arrival into Hollywood was nothing short of an act of fate.

It was on a balmy afternoon in 2003 over lunch that director Wes Anderson offered Ahluwalia a part in The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou that had Bill Murray, Owen Wilson and Cate Blanchett as his co-stars. “He sent me the script for his new movie and told me he had a part for me. He did not even call me for an audition,” Ahluwalia told The National News.

Waris Ahluwalia in The Darjeeling Express

Waris Ahluwalia and Owen Wilson in a still from The Darjeeling LImited

This was the beginning of Ahluwalia’s journey in Hollywood. For the next few years, he made appearances in films like The Darjeeling Limited (2007), I Am Love (2010), The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014), Beeba Boys (2015) and Ocean’s 8 (2018). Despite being a Sikh, Ahulwalia has never been stereotyped on screen, and it’s this ability that he plays to the gallery every single time.

His love for films and jewelry had also extended to the realm of fashion. For someone who often appeared on the Best Dressed Men lists in Vanity Fair, Vogue and GQ, he hit another milestone in 2013 when he became the first Sikh man to model for Gap, and make a statement on tolerance with ad campaign #MakeLove. However, the subway advertisement came under a full-blown racial attack when it was defaced with messages by vandals. The caption “Make Love” was altered to “Make Bombs” by the culprits. Gap backed their model and changed its Twitter background to the picture of Ahluwalia to show solidarity and support. This gesture found appreciation from the Sikh community who soon started a Thank You Gap campaign.

Waris Ahluwali in Gap advertisement

“I’m from New York. People write things on subway posters all the time. When that happened, I wasn’t hurt. But I was amazed at the response. I think it was a beautiful thing. What it did was create an opportunity for dialogue and race relations,” said Ahluwalia.

But this wasn’t Ahluwalia’s first tryst with racial discrimination. After the 9/11 attacks, Ahluwalia was eyed suspiciously for he wore a turban and sported a beard.

In a conversation with Times of India, he said,

“I remember the months following 9/11 – people would glare at me with anger and hate as I walked down the street here in New York. My own city, my home. Six months after that terrible day I was assaulted and nearly lost my vision in my right eye. The oldest and strongest emotion known to mankind is fear. The hate and anger experienced is one of its ugliest byproducts – fear of the ‘other’. When I was punched in the face, I could have let fear get the better of me. But then I would have truly lost. So, instead I decided to fight the fear – and to do so with love, understanding, and education.”

In February 2016, Ahluwalia once again faced discrimination when he was denied entry into a flight from Mexico to New York because he refused to take off his turban during security check. Not one to be easily rattled, he posted a photo on Instagram explaining the situation. The incident was met with outrage on social media and soon Aeromexico issued an apology. He later said that he wasn’t angry but wanted to raise awareness about racism that one faces at airports.

 

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A post shared by Waris Ahluwalia (@houseofwaris)

Winning everyone with his #LoveNotFear, the designer-actor was in for a surprise when New York City mayor decided to dedicate a day to Ahluwalia. Bill de Blasio declared October 19, 2016 as Waris Ahluwalia Day in recognition of the Sikh-American actor and designer for his powerful message of countering ignorance and advocating for religious understanding and tolerance.

“Put love in all that you do. Exist with love. It’s our only weapon against fear. Know yourself as love and know the stranger you pass on the street as love — not as the other. There is no other. Just us. That’s how I do it. With love and empathy. Each and every day,” he said.

Giving Back

Apart from raising awareness against racial discrimination, Ahluwalia is involved with saving Asian Elephants of India with an NGO, Elephant Family. Every two years, he embarks on a 500 kilometre journey across the Indian countryside to raise money for the charity. “We raise awareness across the world about the dire need for conservation. The money goes to protecting the elephant corridors and the villagers who live amongst the wildlife. We’re working to create a world where wildlife and humanity can co-exist.”

A designer, an actor, a model, and an activist – Waris Ahluwalia is a creative polymath. He loves fashion, films, jewelry and activism in equal measure. For someone who began his career by chance to becoming a torchbearer of cultural inclusivity, Ahluwalia has come a long way.

Editor’s Take

Ahluwalia has many firsts to his name – the first Sikh man to model for Gap and the first Indian-American to get a day dedicated to himself. The 47-year-old is not just a name to reckon with in the fashion industry, but has found respect among many for advocating for religious tolerance. And that’s what makes him a perfect story of inspiration.

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  • Aeromexico
  • Amritsar
  • Beeba Boys
  • Bill Murray
  • Cate Balnchett
  • Desis
  • Elephant Family
  • Gap
  • Global Indian
  • Global Indians
  • GQ
  • Hollywood
  • House of Waris
  • I Am Love
  • Indians abroad
  • Maxfields
  • New York
  • Ocean's 8
  • Owen Wilson
  • Punjab
  • The Darjeeling Limited
  • The Grand Budapest Hotel
  • The Life Acquatic With Steve Zissou
  • Twitter
  • Vanity Fair
  • Vogue
  • Waris Ahluwalia
  • Waris Ahluwalia Day
  • Waris Shah

Published on 04, Aug 2021

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Born in 1996 in Ludhiana, Punjab in a traditional family, Saini moved to Washington in the United States at the age of five. Seeing the Miss World pageant on television, Saini was intrigued by the world of glamor and service at a very young age. She was just six when she dressed up as Miss World for her school event, and knew that this was something that she would want to become someday. But amid the starry dreams, life was set to take a U-turn for this young girl when she was diagnosed with a rare heart condition at the age of 12. Her condition caused led her heart to beat only 20 times per minute as opposed to the normal 70 times per minute. She had to undergo an open heart surgery where a pacemaker was inserted to help her heart function properly.

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A near fatal accident

Things once again took a hard turn for Saini when during her college days she met with a near fatal accident. While driving on an icy patch in Moses Lake in 2016, her car skid off the road and rolled into a ditch. She wasn't just extensively bruised but her face suffered partial burns. "I had to wear a giant hat and a face mask or my skin would burn because of the sun." Seeing the gravity of situation, her doctors gave a year of recovery time but the 24-year-old bounced back strong in less than a month. "My parents really helped me in that moment of adversity. They told me to constantly choose resilience. And I think in our life, we are going to always, be met with hardships but what truly defines our life is our choices that we make," she told ABC7.

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[caption id="attachment_6467" align="aligncenter" width="621"]Indian Handbag Brands Dilip Kapur[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_6468" align="aligncenter" width="627"]Indian Handbag Brands Sahil Malik with his wife Shivani; Photo Courtesy: You and I[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_6464" align="aligncenter" width="600"]Indian Handbag Brands Nina Lekhi with Shraddha Kapoor[/caption]

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near Kanpur, Mihsra's birthplace first got electricity a year after his birth. With frequent power cuts, Mishra would often finish his homework under the light of a kerosene lamp while attending a school that had no benches and made students sit on durries for their classes. Like most of his friends coming from his village, Mishra had a inclination towards becoming an IAS officer. However, it was his creative side that pulled him towards arts as he developed his love for doodling and creating comic strips while studying at Maharishi Vidya Mandir in Lucknow. So after completing his Physics degree from Kanpur University, Mishra decided to give his love for arts a shot as he enrolled himself in apparel design and merchandising course at National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad in 2003.

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Bringing Indian handloom to global market

Upon his return, this Global Indian did every bit to showcase collections that were taking Indian traditions forward. Be it ikat from Odhisa or chikankari from Lucknow, Mishra
he was making Indian handlooms popular globally at a time when Make In India hadn't become the buzzword. Soon he launched his eponymous label and showcased his work at fashion weeks in Dubai, London and Australia.

[caption id="attachment_13954" align="aligncenter" width="667"]Rahul Mishra Rahuk Mishra with a model. (Photo Courtesy: Vogue)[/caption]

But showcasing his collection at Paris Fashion Week is what changed the trajectory of his career. Mishra, who calls himself a storyteller and believes that every garment has a soul and a philosophy behind it, became the first Indian ever to win the International Woolmark Prize, thus catapulting him into the league of Karl Lagerfeld and Giorgio Armani. Suzy Menkes, the popular fashion critic, called Mishra a "national treasure" after his spectacular win.

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Mishra's work has found resonance in India and abroad. Known to add milestones in journey, Mishra became the first Indian designer to showcase haute couture at Paris Fashion Week in 2020. In just over a decade, Mishra has become a global name in the world of fashion, and it's his philosophy that has worked wonders for him. "Fashion is influenced by my memories of childhood and also the people I meet, but innovation comes from within. I follow a design process which I inculcated in National Institute of Design. So for me it's not just about a person wearing a shirt or a dress, there is an entire philosophy behind it. This invisible, intangible philosophy is much like A R Rahman's music, something original, pure and untouched, that is fashion for me," he told Business Standard.

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arning. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination and hard work, one can do the impossible.

The Hyderabad-based fashion designer has come a long, long way, and even if she had to take a long, difficult road to achieve her dreams, her creations are making waves across the globe. “I embraced the mindset of ‘doing’, being willing to make small mistakes and allowing circumstances to become my teacher,” she smiles. “Eventually, I realized that I had developed skills that surpassed what some of the highest educational institutions could offer,” she adds

Timeless designs, eco-friendly fashion

Geethika’s collections capture timeless sentiments with organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unique designs, creating an ambience that communicates volumes via touch and texture. “I intend to incorporate natural fabrics into occasion wear,” says Geethika, who is all about making her label eco-friendly and going zero waste. She also designs luxury craft items, tote bags from waste fabrics.

Her newly launched collection ‘Wilderness’, embraces the pure connection between Mother Earth and human emotions. “It captures timeless sentiments through organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unconventional designs,” says the 29-year-old. The heaviest piece in this collection took more than 300 working hours to create.

[caption id="attachment_47427" align="aligncenter" width="511"] The 'Gilded Noir saree set' (hand-embroidered, natural crepe) from the Wilderness collection[/caption]

She has done several exhibitions across the world, including Singapore and US, where she has a huge fan following. Her creations are also available at select stores in the US, UK and Dubai.

A childhood dream

Born in Chennai, Geethika always had a deep fasincation for clothing and fashion, and desired, deep down, to pursue a career that involved it. “Although I did not know what to call it at the time, I later discovered that people referred to this as being a Fashion Designer,” Geethika recalls.

She was so passionate about designing clothes that she would lock her door and play dress-up games on her computer instead of getting ready for school. “When I turned 14, I found myself contemplating how to become a fashion designer, but I had no idea where to begin. I was desperately searching for answers until a relative came into my life and showed me the path,” recalls Geethika, who did her schooling in Chettinaad Vidyashram, Chennai. She then moved to Hyderabad, where she has remained since.

A temporary deviation

However, when the time came to join the 11th grade, she encountered a common tradition in Hyderabad: the expectation to pursue either Engineering or MBBS (medical studies). “Anything other than these options was considered inadequate, and surpassing them was deemed abnormal. Unfortunately, I fell into this trap as well.”Since her math skills were not strong, Geethika chose to study BiPC as a compromise to satisfy the desires of those around me. “After completing my 12th grade, when I wanted to take the entrance exam for a Fashion Design college, everyone tried to convince me to pursue MBBS instead. It took great effort, but I managed to convince them and prepared for the entrance test,” says the ace fashion designer, who has been featured in many international magazines.

A health crisis

However, as she was looking forward to writing the entrance test to get admission in the fashion design institute, fate threw a severe health problem her way. Her  vision began to blur. She was taken to various hospitals to find out what was wrong. “After visiting multiple hospitals, we finally discovered that it was anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots,” informs Geethika.

[caption id="attachment_47428" align="aligncenter" width="482"]Rashmika Mandanna | Geethika Kanumilli | Global Indian 'Animal' actor Rashmika Mandanna wearing a design by Geethika Kanumilli[/caption]

Losing vision in one of her eyes was an incredibly challenging and distressing period for Geethika and her family.  A few months of medications later, she was ready to take her entrance exam. “Unfortunately, it was too late, and the registration had already closed until the following year. I had no choice but to wait. This tested my patience to the extreme, and it felt as if some greater force was at work.”

A time of uncertainty 

Geethika ended up taking a one-year break, hoping the illness would ease.  Nevertheless, her determination to become a fashion designer remained unshaken. The following year, she took the entrance test and got admission into the top Fashion Design college in Hyderabad. “Finally, nothing stood in the way of my dream. I was fully charged and motivated to make the most of this opportunity,” she says.

However, during her second year of college, the same health issue resurfaced and started to affect her working eye, particularly during stitching sessions. “Initially, I managed with the support of my classmates, but eventually, I realized that continuing like that was not feasible. It was at this moment that I recognised the need to let go of my dream of becoming a Fashion Designer permanently,” says Geethika, who felt helpless, and quitting college in the middle of her second year was a significant blow.

“People around me made fun of my decision, and I felt embarrassed for not having a degree. I endured insults and criticism, but I chose not to disclose my health issues to most of my relatives and friends. I didn't want to use it as an excuse.” It was an intense period of uncertainty, and Geethika spent an entire year feeling lost and exhausted from the cycle of quitting and resting.

The decision that changed her life

 

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A post shared by Geethika Kanumilli (@kanumilli)

However, one fine morning in 2015, she took a decision, regardless of the outcome. She decided to start my own fashion label as a designer. “I was only 20 then, without any professional work experience or a degree. Many people, including my own family, were against the idea of pursuing something different,” recalls Geethika.

Despite the challenges, she gathered the resources to start a small-scale business, targeting customers within a three-kilometer radius. “I had no prior knowledge or experience in running a business, but I was determined to learn as I went along.”

The initial days of running a business were incredibly challenging. “There were times when my vision would blur, and I would fear that each hard day of work would be my last day of sight. But whenever the choice to quit or continue arose, I was clear from the beginning that I was working for glory, not just for money,” she says.

After three years of consistent hard work, Geethika’s brand's customer base expanded to 12 countries and 45 cities through online sales. “This success brought appreciation from friends and family, who were unaware of the true reason why I had dropped out of college,” she says.

The creative process

When she begins to design a dress for a client, she approaches it with an intense thought: "This person must look their best wherever they go." Although it may sound simple, the intensity with which I think this thought is abnormally high. This mindset drives me to create the most unique color combinations possible,” she says of her work.

For Geethika, her clients are not just customers; they are the medium through which she expresses herself. “Their satisfaction and joy in wearing my designs fuel my passion and remind me that my journey as a fashion designer is far from over.”

Geethika believes her life taught her an important lesson. “When you achieve success, the flaws that others once saw in you become examples for them to follow. The secret is to remember this and strive to reach that point,” she feels.

Telling her story

While many of her friends and relatives were unaware why she had to drop out of college, Geethika revealed it through TEDx. “I have always desired to connect with individuals who may have experienced similar situations, believing that their pain is their enemy. However, looking back, I now understand that pain can be a friend. In my case, without the pain, I would not have been driven to achieve what I have today,” says the fashion designer.

  • Follow Geethika on Instagram and her website.
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Ritu Kumar to Sabyasachi Mukherjee: 5 Indian designers who have styled global celebrities

It's mostly the images of colorful ethnic, traditional, printed, and embroidered Indian wear that pops in one's mind when one thinks about Indian fashion. Though these nuances do represent the Indian sartorial sensibilities, there is more than meets the eye. Many Indian designers are perfectly blending the traditional and modern through their designs, and taking it a notch higher with their labels in India and abroad. With an eclectic fusion of contemporary silhouettes and Indian textiles, these designers are raising a toast to fashion in the global circuits. Meet the five Indian designers who have been putting Indian fashion on the world map with their labels. These Indian-origin designers are taking over the world with each couture at a time. Naeem Khan The 63-year-old Indian-American designer is today a blue-chip name in fashion, with film stars, royals among his clients. From Cameron Diaz to Beyonce to Taylor Swift to Padma Lakshmi, Khan has styled the who's who of international celebrities. But the biggest moment for the designer came when he styled former First Lady Michelle Obama in 2009 for the first state dinner. In no time, he became the most Googled name in the world. Since then, he has not

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rong>Beyonce to Taylor Swift to Padma Lakshmi, Khan has styled the who's who of international celebrities. But the biggest moment for the designer came when he styled former First Lady Michelle Obama in 2009 for the first state dinner. In no time, he became the most Googled name in the world. Since then, he has not only created more than 20 outfits for Michelle Obama but has also become a good friend of hers. Khan has taken all these opportunities delicately and has presented Indian fashion to the world in the best possible way.

 

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A post shared by NAEEM KHAN LTD (@naeemkhannyc)

Saloni Lodha

Born in a traditional Marwari family, Saloni became interested in fashion since her teenage days. But her journey as a fashion designer began when she moved to London. However, it wasn't until Emma Watson made an appearance on The Early Show in a dress by Saloni that things started moving drastically for the designer. Indian heritage is always at the forefront of her designs, and even Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, couldn't ignore Saloni's creations. In 2015, Kate Middleton stepped out in a dress from Lodha's Pre-fall collection, and since then, there has been no looking back for her.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

Sabyasachi is one name that almost all Indian celebrities swear by. From light floral designs to intricate and classic lehengas, Sabyasachi is bringing traditional Indian wear to the forefront with his timeless designs. But not many know that the 47-year-old designer has styled Oprah Winfrey in 2018. She wore a custom-made black saree designed by Mukherjee for a photoshoot for Elle magazine. It was on Winfrey's maiden trip to India that she met Mukherjee at a dinner hosted by the royal family, and the two have remained in touch since then.

 

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A post shared by Sabyasachi (@sabyasachiofficial)

Ritu Kumar

In 1997, Princess Diana arrived in Pakistan in a blue salwar kameez designed by Ritu Kumar. Known to be the First Lady of Indian fashion, the 76-year-old designer has styled many global celebrities. From Spice Girls to Anoushka Shankar to Mischa Baron, the divas have had the opportunity to be styled by the ace designer.

 

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A post shared by Lady Diana, Princess of Wales (@lady.diana._)

Bibhu Mohapatra

Bibhu Mohapatra's exquisite designs have made him Hollywood's favorite designer. The Odhisa-born and Manhattan-based designer has styled artists like Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Lupita Nyong'o, Hilary Swank, and Demi Lovato. But it was former First Lady Michelle Obama who changed the game for Mohapatra. "It was Michelle who essentially put me on the map when she arrived in India for her state trip wearing my outfit. To be able to collaborate with individuals like her has made me a very lucky guy," he told NDTV.

 

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A post shared by B I B H U M O H A P A T R A (@bibhumohapatra)

Editor's Take: Fashion is more than just the clothes we wear, it is a metaphor for identity. Through personal style, each individual announces who they are. Fashion has gone beyond the realm of a variety of fabrics, and over the years, has evolved into a sense of personal expression. And these Indian designers are who are taking over the world with their personal craft. A pursuit so rich that even international celebrities are taking notice of their talent. These designers have brought Brand India to the global platform and have truly become the Global Indians in its truest sense.

RELATED READ: Diipa Buller Khosla: The law graduate who became first Indian influencer to walk the Cannes red carpet

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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