The Global Indian Saturday, June 28 2025
  • Home
  • Stories
    • Exclusive
      • Startups
      • Culture
      • Marketplace
      • Campus Life
      • Youth
      • Giving Back
      • Zip Codes
    • Blogs
      • Opinion
      • Profiles
      • Web Stories
    • Fun Facts
      • World in numbers
      • Didyouknow
      • Quote
    • Gallery
      • Pictures
      • Videos
  • Work Life
  • My Book
  • Top 100
  • Our Stories
  • Tell Your Story
Select Page
Priya Ahluwalia
Global IndianstoryPriya Ahluwalia: The London-based designer is saving the planet with every new collection
  • Fashion
  • Whatsapp Share
  • LinkedIn Share
  • Facebook Share
  • Twitter Share

Priya Ahluwalia: The London-based designer is saving the planet with every new collection

Written by: Global Indian

(October 18, 2021) Her eponymous label found its roots in heritage and sustainability. Who could have thought that a trip to Lagos in Nigeria and Panipat in India would give birth to a fashion label that will become the face of sustainable fashion in international market? Meet Priya Ahluwalia, a London-based designer who is making people rethink their choices in fashion like no one else. The 29-year-old, in a short span, has become a name to reckon with and is making people sit up and take notice of her designs, one collection at a time.

The designer, who made it to the Forbes 30 Under 30 list last year, is rising up the ladder with her craft that is hugely influenced by her Indian and Nigerian heritage. Here’s the story of this Global Indian who is consciously working to save the planet with every design that she creates.

Priya Ahluwalia

Priya Ahluwalia with her models

A trip to two countries set the course for her career

Born to an Indian mother and a Nigerian father in London in 1992, Ahluwalia was always fascinated by colors and fashion. In her words, her mother was quite stylish and she loved trying on her clothes constantly. This love for clothing gave birth to her desire of becoming a fashion designer. But since Ahluwalia was quite studious, her mom was keen to make her a lawyer. So when she decided to fulfill her childhood dream and enrolled in the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom for a course in fashion, her family was quite shocked. However, Ahluwalia was sure about her decision.

But during her graduation, something peculiar happened and it set the course of her career. It was on a trip to Nigeria to meet her father in 2017 that Ahluwalia noticed hawkers on the streets of Lagos wearing some obscure items of British clothing. An inquisitive Ahluwalia rolled down the windows of her car to indulge in a chit-chat with them asking them about their clothes. That small rendezvous and some research on the internet led her to the the second-hand clothing market in the city that has stocks coming in from unwanted donations to British charity shops and then sold by various traders for profit. The journey of these clothes left Ahluwalia fascinated and she was keen to explore more about the huge amounts of clothes that are discarded by Western countries each year.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Ahluwalia (@ahluwalia)

This led her to Panipat in India, a city that’s often described as the garment recycling capital of the world. Seeing the colossal amount of waste clothing that was stacked into mountainous piles and sorted by color, Ahluwalia was both disturbed as well as moved with the scale of the problem. Since the 29-year-old was studying on the Menswear MA course at London’s Westminster University, this inspired her collection during her MA.

“All of this shocked me in a number of ways. Firstly, I couldn’t believe that secondhand clothing was such a big business. I was also completely shocked at the sheer amount of clothes that are discarded, I had never really thought about it properly before. I suppose it is easy to ignore something that you don’t really see. It also really made me cherish craft and tradition in textiles,” she told Ignant in an interview.

The birth of her label

During her trip to both the countries, Ahluwalia began to document what she saw as photographs and soon released a book titled Sweet Lassi that had the imagery of these places as well as the pictures from her MA collection which was made from repurposed fabrics. It was the success of the book and collection that brought the second-hand garment industry onto fashion agenda. Her graduation collection was purchased by British retailer LN-CC and this eventually led to launch her label, Ahluwalia with sustainable principles.

Her debut collection was proof of her conscious choices as she used second hand garment reworked as menswear to highlight the industry’s problem with waste. It’s not just her technique and material choice but also her production methods that set her apart as a designer. For her Summer Spring 2019 collection, the beading on her patchwork pants was done by Sewa Delhi, an organization that specializes in getting rural Indian women into fairly paid work that fits around their family schedule. The collection was such a hit that it won her the H&M Global Design Award 2019. The same year she collaborated with Adidas at Paris Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2019 and took over the ramp at London Fashion Week 2020 with her Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Ahluwalia (@ahluwalia)

Sustainable fashion is the key

All the pieces at Ahluwalia are made exclusively from recycled deadstock. She is one of those rare young designers who are openly addressing issues like climate crisis and sustainability. “I think the correlation between young designers talking about these issues is that more young designers are of BAME (Black, Asian, Minority Ethnic) backgrounds than ever before. This means that for the first time, designers from ethnic minorities are able to share their stories and work through their own voice,” the Forbes 30 Under 30 designer told CNN.

Since the launch of her label, Ahulwalia has been drawing inspiration from her Indian and Nigerian roots for her collection, and that’s what makes her work unique and intriguing at the same time. “I am always inspired by my heritage and upbringing. I am Nigerian and Indian, and I was brought up in London, they are all places with such a wealth of culture and inspiration. I love the vibrancy of Lagos style, the craftsmanship of Indian textiles and the typical mixed wardrobe of a London man. They fuse together to create collections that are serious and playful at the same time,” she told GQ.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Ahluwalia (@ahluwalia)

In just three years, Ahluwalia has become a rising star in fashion – someone who is making the world rethink about their sartorial choices and asking the fashion industry to make conscious choice to reduce the carbon footprint by opting for sustainable fashion.

Subscribe
Connect with
Notify of
guest

OR

Connect with
guest

OR

0 Comments
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
  • Adidas
  • Epsom
  • Forbes 30 Under 30
  • H&M Global Design Award 2019
  • London Fashion Week 2020
  • Paris Fashion Week
  • Priya Ahluwalia
  • Sewa Delhi
  • Sustainable Fashion
  • Sweet Lassi
  • University for the Creative Arts
  • Westminster University

Published on 18, Oct 2021

Share with

  • Whatsapp Share
  • LinkedIn Share
  • Facebook Share
  • Twitter Share

ALSO READ

Story
From battling rare heart condition to winning Miss World America 2021: Shree Saini’s incredible journey

(October 11, 2021) Shree Saini erupted in joy when her name echoed at the Miss World America headquarters in Los Angeles after she was crowned the Miss World America 2021, making her the first Indian American to achieve the feat. The 25-year-old scripted history and how. Her childhood dream of becoming a Miss World translated into reality, but not without her share of trials and tribulations. Saini had to fight a rare heart condition and a near fatal accident to walk those last few steps on the stage towards the coveted crown. Here's the inspiring journey of this Global Indian who braved her way through adversities to create history.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Shree Saini👑Miss World America (@shreesaini) A heart condition that put her dreams on hold Born in 1996 in Ludhiana, Punjab in a traditional family, Saini moved to Washington in the United States at the age of five. Seeing the Miss World pageant on television, Saini was intrigued by the world of glamor and service at a very young age. She was just six when she dressed up as Miss World for her school event, and knew that this was something

Read More

mbed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14">

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Shree Saini👑Miss World America (@shreesaini)

A heart condition that put her dreams on hold

Born in 1996 in Ludhiana, Punjab in a traditional family, Saini moved to Washington in the United States at the age of five. Seeing the Miss World pageant on television, Saini was intrigued by the world of glamor and service at a very young age. She was just six when she dressed up as Miss World for her school event, and knew that this was something that she would want to become someday. But amid the starry dreams, life was set to take a U-turn for this young girl when she was diagnosed with a rare heart condition at the age of 12. Her condition caused led her heart to beat only 20 times per minute as opposed to the normal 70 times per minute. She had to undergo an open heart surgery where a pacemaker was inserted to help her heart function properly.

"That was a huge turning point for me. I was told that I couldn't dance or play sports, and it felt like my life just stopped. I thought I would have to live on a machine. But I wasn't going to let that adversity stop me," she told Spokesman in an interview.

An advocate of mental health

While Saini was going through her health crisis, her days in school were equally nightmarish as she was subjected to bullying for years. She felt like an outcast at school for being a person of color. However, she didn't let any of this affect her as she became an advocate of heart health and mental health. At 15, when her mother fell seriously ill and had to be put on life support, Saini decided to start her own NGO to help others, who were dealing with depression like her. Her difficult times helped her adopt a solution-oriented mindset, and that's what kept her afloat all these years.

"My parents taught me about the ‘charity of spirit’ that means overlooking offenses and highlighting only the good in others. We should always try to defuse the negativity in any situation and focus on the light within all of us. Your life’s legacy is defined by how you make people feel, with each vibe/interaction/conversation and the positive difference you make in other’s lives in your lifetime," she told India-West.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Shree Saini👑Miss World America (@shreesaini)

With a pacemaker in her heart, Saini had to bid adieu to dance for some time but she used that time to enroll in public speaking courses. "In elementary school, I began dancing in my living room. At that time, I didn’t have dance lessons because we lived in a small town of 2,000 people. In middle school, when we moved to a bigger town, I received a pacemaker, so I had to take years away from dance, but I used that time to enroll in public speaking courses. In high school, I officially started my nonprofit and found ways to give back at every fundraising and speaking events during weekends," she added.

If she started finding solace in giving back, she also put on her dancing shoes after a hiatus to get back to something she loved the most. Two years after her surgery, Saini trained in ballet and was soon accepted to the New York City Joffrey Ballet, an offer she did not take up. Instead, she took a gap year, and spent some time in India travelling to Kolkata and Punjab. She later studied non-proft management at Harvard, acting at the Yale School of Drama, social entrepreneurship at Stanford and journalism at the University of Washington.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Shree Saini👑Miss World America (@shreesaini)

A near fatal accident

Things once again took a hard turn for Saini when during her college days she met with a near fatal accident. While driving on an icy patch in Moses Lake in 2016, her car skid off the road and rolled into a ditch. She wasn't just extensively bruised but her face suffered partial burns. "I had to wear a giant hat and a face mask or my skin would burn because of the sun." Seeing the gravity of situation, her doctors gave a year of recovery time but the 24-year-old bounced back strong in less than a month. "My parents really helped me in that moment of adversity. They told me to constantly choose resilience. And I think in our life, we are going to always, be met with hardships but what truly defines our life is our choices that we make," she told ABC7.

Journey to stardom

A year later, she dipped her toes in the world of glamor when she participated in Miss India-USA and won the title. In 2020, she won the World Peace Messenger Award from Passion Vista. But it was in October 2021 that Saini scripted history by becoming the first Indian-American to win the Miss World America 2021 title. "I am happy and quite nervous. I can't express my feelings (in words). All the credit goes to my parents, especially my mother because of whose support I am here. Thank you Miss World America for this honour," she said in a statement.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Shree Saini👑Miss World America (@shreesaini)

She also holds the position of Miss World America National Beauty with a Purpose Ambassador, something she earned by working tirelessly to help those less fortunate and in need. Among her many accomplishments, her work has been recognized by UNICEF, Doctors without Borders, Susan G Komen, and many others.

Shree Saini has fought many adversities to reach the top and is the perfect example that anything is possible if you are determined to persevere.

Reading Time: 6 min

Story
How Indian fashion designer Saisha Shinde gave transgenders a shot in the arm, and Miss Universe Harnaaz her look

(January 3, 2021) In January 2021, an acclaimed celebrity designer daringly came out as a trans woman, surprising many who heard the news. Fast forward to December 2021, this Indian fashion designer’s talent was recognised by the entire world when Miss Universe Harnaaz Sandhu wore the designer’s sparkly phulkari-inspired ethereal gown at the Miss Universe pageant held in Eilat, Israel. Meet the sassy and bold National Institute of Fashion Technology-alum Saisha Shinde, whose new identity and work has the world starstruck, not just because of her bespoke outfits but also her incredible talent. Formerly known as Swapnil Shinde, Saisha’s Miss Universe milestone is all the more special because this is her first grand achievement as a trans woman. “I never get tired of telling people how I’m feeling about this feat because it’s a historic moment for India and me. I feel blessed to have this win in my kitty. I was in college when Lara Dutta was crowned Miss Universe and I have been designing for pageants, especially Miss India for seven years now. But as Saisha, my first Miss India project led me to the Miss Universe gig, so this victory is all the more special,” smiles the

Read More

e more special,” smiles the Indian fashion designer who started accepting her alternative sexuality at NIFT.

[caption id="attachment_18420" align="aligncenter" width="485"]Harnaaz Sandhu Harnaaz Sandhu, Miss Universe India 2021, wearing Saisha Shinde's creation.[/caption]

Designing the stunning gown that Harnaaz sported, Saisha says, “Harnaaz trusted the experts completely. I always ask my clients a few basic questions - favourite colour, where they hail from, favourite flower etc. Having known that Harnaaz is from Punjab, where the phulkari motif originated, I wanted to take the phulkari geometric shape, and convert it into a mosaic. Miss Indias’ have a specific look, so we needed to follow that and make Harnaaz look exquisite.” The NIFT graduate interned at the renowned House of Versace in Italy, which has given her a depth and versatility evident in her designs.

How the "trans" journey began

On Saisha’s coming out, she reveals that that her simple Maharashtrian parents, albeit shocked, accepted her truth wholeheartedly. “My relationship with my mother has grown leaps and bounds. We always underestimate our parents – it’s important to communicate with them with respect and not rebellion. In other situations, you have to be rebellious sometimes,” quips Saisha. She also touches upon how living in a democracy should mean that people can voice opinions for marginalised communities like hers, “The only way to spread the message is to shout, I do it with full swing when the work is not done on time!” she tells Global Indian.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by S A I S H A S H I N D E (@officialsaishashinde)

After years of being Swapnil, why did Saisha decide to come out this year? “I knew that I was going to come out. I was waiting to accept it. I could not see myself leading a double life – I wanted to live a life of truth and have nothing to hide. I came out for myself - I didn’t expect it to become what it became, but I’m glad it did because it’s opened doors for a host of trans people in India. It’s been inspiring to get inspired by others,” says the gutsy designer, who received overwhelming support on social media after her announcement.

Coming out has lifted a huge burden off the 39-year-old’s mind, yet it comes with its share of difficult learnings too. “I now understand what women go through every single day. Women are expected to behave, talk, dress and sit in a certain way. As a male, I didn’t have to face this. It didn’t even occur to me that I had to sit and stand a certain way. As for my professional life, I’m lucky to hail from an industry that’s accepting and more inclusive than any other profession - they have accepted me with open arms. We have so many gay men, lesbian women and trans men and women behind the scenes and we’re all paid properly and treated well. I always felt a sense of security here,” says Saisha who hails from Maharashtra.

[caption id="attachment_18421" align="aligncenter" width="501"]Saisha Shinde Saisha Shinde[/caption]

How her designs emulated her persona

After years of designing clothes for women as a man, Saisha admits that after she came out as a trans woman, the way she looks at women’s design has changed drastically. “At first, I would create without thinking too much about the woman or what she’s about. Now, I’m conscious about what I’m making and for who. Earlier, comfort played an insignificant role when designing, but now, comfort is the number one priority. For me, it’s a revolutionary change,” she muses.

As someone who designs for Bollywood stars, how does the film industry see trans people? “Many are ignorant and have pre-set notions. A few trailblazing transwomen like Gazal Dhaliwal and Trinetra Haldar are breaking norms. It’s just a matter of time when representation of our community will be visible in films or TV shows,” mulls Saisha.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by S A I S H A S H I N D E (@officialsaishashinde)

Being different, being true

When it comes to the alarming stereotypes about her community, Saisha shares, “Everyone thinks that transgenders are eunuchs and that’s not the case. They also think that we have a disease that’s contagious and that they might turn trans if they touch us! People also think that men dressing as women for entertainment and humour are ‘us,’ but that is not ‘us.’ Those are men who are cross-dressers or men who are doing drag.”

Dressing the stars

On the work front, Saisha’s clientele includes Bollywood superstars like Madhuri Dixit, Kareena Kapoor and Anushka Sharma. Her all-time favourite is the woman she grew up idolising. “When I was in school, I’d lock my bedroom door and dance to Madhuri’s songs. Eventually, I got to work with her and that alone made me feel successful. She’s so amazing to work with – she’s loyal and gives one creative freedom. I also like dressing up Deepika Padukone as anything you give her looks good on her!”

In the world of fashion, Saisha’s idols include the late Wendell Rodricks, Anaita Shroff Adajania, Shaleena Nathani, Eka Lakhani and Sabina Chopra (her mentor since day one). Her future projects are the magnum opus Ponniyan Selvan: I, directed by the Mani Ratnam, where Saisha got to dress up the ethereal Aishwarya Rai. “In collaboration with Eka Lakhani, we have created costumes for Aishwarya, Trisha and a few other cast members. I get to work with Mani sir and that’s a dream come true. I’ve also designed for Deepika for a song in Pathan (which stars Shah Rukh Khan) and there are a few other interesting projects in the pipeline.”

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by S A I S H A S H I N D E (@officialsaishashinde)

Shinde hopes to make metro inhabitants aware of the trans community, and hopes the community will get a separate employment quota one day. “They should be able to get legal documents without hassles. Once this happens in big cities, we can target tier-2 and 3 cities,” she adds.

When she’s not working, Saisha is inevitably engrossed in fashion shows on TV, and voraciously reads about fashion. Having trained at Shaimak Davar’s dance school in jazz and funk, she now intends to learn Bharatanatyam and Kathak. Saisha’s also has another aspiring dream – to be awarded the prestigious Padma Shri like Manjamma Jogath, the first transgender to bag the award. “I felt so proud when I heard that. I prayed that I stand in her place one day,” she signs off.

Follow Saisha Shinde on Twitter and Instagram

Reading Time: 6 min

Story
Saran Kohli: The British-Indian designer who nailed Hollywood with Marvel’s Eternals

(September 17, 2021) Handlebar moustache and a sleek style is what makes British-Indian designer Saran Kohli stand out among the rest. The 34-year-old, who has an eponymous label, has become a name to reckon with in the fashion circles. So much so that even Hollywood's biggest studio Marvel couldn't ignore the designer who has styled the who's who of the entertainment industry. Kohli, who fell in love with fashion as a teenager while helping his mom set up her boutique, has now designed for one of the most-anticipated films of 2021 Eternals. Kohli, who started with big labels like Hugo Boss and Banana Republic, has come a long way in his Global Indian journey. Baby steps into fashion Born in East London in a Sikh family to immigrant parents who moved to the UK in the 70s, Kohli shifted to India at the age of two after his parents' divorce. It was in New Delhi that Kohli spent his initial days at his grandparents house while his mother started her own fashion business to build a new life for them. India gave Kohli the perfect opportunity to embrace his culture, and after spending 10 years, he returned to London with

Read More

nt his initial days at his grandparents house while his mother started her own fashion business to build a new life for them. India gave Kohli the perfect opportunity to embrace his culture, and after spending 10 years, he returned to London with his mom where she opened her first boutique.

It was his mom's boutique that became a schooling ground for Kohli in fashion. He would spend hours helping her in her sales and choreographing catwalk shows and that's how Kohli was introduced to the world of fashion. The texture, fabric and cuts is something that always attracted Kohli, and soon he found himself enrolled in London College of Fashion. After graduating in fashion management, Kohli found himself working for Japanese designer Michiko Koshino as a public relations and marketing assistant. This first hand experience of working with a designer helped Kohli understand the nuances of the craft and opened doors for him in labels like Hugo Boss and Banana Republic.

Knocking on the door with eponymous label

After learning the trick of the trade from the masters, Kohli launched his own fashion label Saran Kohli in 2009 - a one-stop shop for designer menswear. "I wanted to find that fine line between my heritage and a sartorial finishing with an informal approach to clothing where it could be worn in multiple fashion," he told Voice of Fashion. While his collections are manufactured in the UK and Europe, his craftsmanship is rooted in India as he works with the artisan families that his mom originally collaborated with.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Saran Kohli (@sarankohli)

Within two years of introducing his label, Kohli bagged the Best Newcomer Award in Fashion Design at International Asian Fashion Awards 2011. This catapulted Kohli's business and in no time, Saran Kohli Label became a favorite with celebrities across the globe. From singer Jay Sean to cricketer Sachin Tendulkar to Mayor of London Sadiq Khan, Kohli has styled the best in the world. It's Kohli love for music, dance, travel and culture that often inspire his collections.

After featuring in New York Times, GQ UK, UK Esquire and Asian Wealth Magazine, Saran Kohli Label opened its first official store in London in 2016, and has been going strong ever since. While Kohli has styled some of most well-known personalities, his real big break came in the form of Marvel's Eternals.

The Marvel moment

It was in 2019 that a call from Marvel Studios's costume department that took Kohli by surprise. The designer received a request to create outfits for 52 dancers for a sequence in Marvel's most-anticipated film Eternals that has Kumail Nanjiani playing the first South Asian superhero. Kohli, who himself is a choreographer and dancer, leapt at the opportunity. Keeping up with Marvel's stringent confidentiality protocols, Kohli couldn't understand the magnitude of the project till he signed on the dotted lines.

"It was a direct call from the costume department of Marvel Studios. Initially, they didn't even tell me if it was for a film. They just told me that they are looking for some costumes for this scene that has got a bit of a dance sequence. This is the kind of feel. I didn't interrogate so much initially because I have done film costume design in the past and I thought it must be one of those regular films only. Later when they sent an email, the film name was different, it was a made-up name of a film. They asked me to meet them at the Pinewood Studios. And when they took this name I figured out that it is going to be a big-budget film. I initially thought it might be a Bollywood flick. But later when I spoke to one of the heads of the costume department at Marvel, I realized it was something big for sure," he told the Times of India.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WVDKZJkGlY

Working with Marvel Studio was an enriching experience for Kohli as it gave him a chance to represent his Indian roots. "Marvel doesn’t just have an American audience, it is in every corner of the earth. It makes us feel appreciated and also inspires a lot of young talent to embrace who we are," he added.

Vitiligo awareness

While Kohli was all over the news for bagging a plum project like Marvels, his range of vitiligo masks in 2020 equally became the talk of the town. For someone who has struggled with the skin condition for years, Kohli decided to spread awareness and combat the stigma around it through his new range. It was the age of 16 that Kohli saw the first white spot on his face and for years, he hid it behind his glasses and full-length clothing. It took him many years to be comfortable in his skin, and now he has started a dialogue to create awareness on vitiligo with his collection.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Saran Kohli (@sarankohli)

"It is a great time to open up the avenues of fashion to the debate surrounding skin and a person’s skin color. We, as a generation, have been able to vocally express things that the previous generation has not been able to do," he told Indulge Express. Parts of the proceeds raised for the range were donated to the Vitiligo Society as a part of his advocacy and awareness campaign.

Vitiligo Society

The 34-year-old Kohli, who fell in love with fashion at a young age, found his true calling in his label. And the designer has now put Indian fashion on the global map by designing for one of the biggest Hollywood films.

 

 

Reading Time: 5 min

Story
From village of Kanpur to streets of Milan: How Rahul Mishra made Indian fashion global

(October 25, 2021) Who could have thought that wool could be transformed into a summer fabric? But this novelty is what made fashion designer Rahul Mishra pick up the Woolmark International Prize, making him the first Indian designer to join the league of fashion biggies like Armani and Karl Lagerfeld. When the 42-year-old studied apparel design in National Institute of Design, he thought he wasn't good enough for any other courses. But the decision turned out to be the best thing for this fashion designer who has become a global name in the world of fashion. His love for Indian handloom has made him a designer to reckon with in the international market. But being a global designer was a distant dream for this boy from a village in Kanpur who studied at a school that had ₹7 as its monthly fee. But purely on the basis of his talent, Mishra made it big in fashion and how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0P-cBZU6jFg Village in Kanpur to fashion institute in Milan Born in 1979 in the sleepy village of Malhaus near Kanpur, Mihsra's birthplace first got electricity a year after his birth. With frequent power cuts, Mishra would often finish his homework under the

Read More

near Kanpur, Mihsra's birthplace first got electricity a year after his birth. With frequent power cuts, Mishra would often finish his homework under the light of a kerosene lamp while attending a school that had no benches and made students sit on durries for their classes. Like most of his friends coming from his village, Mishra had a inclination towards becoming an IAS officer. However, it was his creative side that pulled him towards arts as he developed his love for doodling and creating comic strips while studying at Maharishi Vidya Mandir in Lucknow. So after completing his Physics degree from Kanpur University, Mishra decided to give his love for arts a shot as he enrolled himself in apparel design and merchandising course at National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad in 2003.

It was here that he was exposed to arts like never before. Apart from learning about apparel, he ended up attending classes for filmmaking, furniture and animation. A year into his course and Mishra won himself the Best Student Designer of the Year. This gave him enough confidence to make his debut at the Lakme Fashion Week in 2006 using the Kerala mundu handloom fabric to establish his design aesthetic of traditional meeting contemporary minimalism.

Mishra, who was introduced to sustainable fashion and history of local Indian crafts at NID, soon found himself at the doorsteps of Milan's Instituto Marangino, thus becoming the first non-European designer to win a scholarship at the prestigious institute. This one year at Marangino helped Mishra find answers to his many through-provoking questions on fashion. It was while walking across Japanese designer Isse Miyake's store that he realised that how unmistakably Japanese yet global the clothes were. And this was a turning point in Mishra's career. "I understood why he had made it big. It was because he was very rooted in Japanese culture. I had found my answer: I had to be rooted in Indian ideology and create something very universal," he told the Indian Express in an interview.

Bringing Indian handloom to global market

Upon his return, this Global Indian did every bit to showcase collections that were taking Indian traditions forward. Be it ikat from Odhisa or chikankari from Lucknow, Mishra
he was making Indian handlooms popular globally at a time when Make In India hadn't become the buzzword. Soon he launched his eponymous label and showcased his work at fashion weeks in Dubai, London and Australia.

[caption id="attachment_13954" align="aligncenter" width="667"]Rahul Mishra Rahuk Mishra with a model. (Photo Courtesy: Vogue)[/caption]

But showcasing his collection at Paris Fashion Week is what changed the trajectory of his career. Mishra, who calls himself a storyteller and believes that every garment has a soul and a philosophy behind it, became the first Indian ever to win the International Woolmark Prize, thus catapulting him into the league of Karl Lagerfeld and Giorgio Armani. Suzy Menkes, the popular fashion critic, called Mishra a "national treasure" after his spectacular win.

The 42-year-old believes in the power of fashion to solve problems and bring about economic change. That's the reason he essentially works with craft communities in the village of Gujarat, West Bengal and Madhya Pradesh, and even encourages them to innovate. Being himself from a village in Uttar Pradesh who went to Milan, Mishra understands the perils migration for his textile artists. "I don’t want them to come to the cities. I take my work there, develop and safeguard their craft. After all, fashion is the greatest enemy of craft. It’s not about supporting them for one collection, it’s about teaching them everything I know," he added.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Rahul Mishra (@rahulmishra_7)

Mishra's work has found resonance in India and abroad. Known to add milestones in journey, Mishra became the first Indian designer to showcase haute couture at Paris Fashion Week in 2020. In just over a decade, Mishra has become a global name in the world of fashion, and it's his philosophy that has worked wonders for him. "Fashion is influenced by my memories of childhood and also the people I meet, but innovation comes from within. I follow a design process which I inculcated in National Institute of Design. So for me it's not just about a person wearing a shirt or a dress, there is an entire philosophy behind it. This invisible, intangible philosophy is much like A R Rahman's music, something original, pure and untouched, that is fashion for me," he told Business Standard.

Reading Time: 6 min

Story
Creative eye: How designer Geethika Kanumilli overcame a health crisis to achieve global fashion success

(December 13, 2023) Designer Geethika Kanumilli’s world collapsed when she was diagnosed with anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots. It led to the loss of vision in one of her eyes and threatened to put a full stop to her childhood dream of becoming a fashion designer. Geethika Kanumilli was not one to give up, however, not even when her eye condition worsened to the point where she had to drop out of fashion school. The iron-willed designer decided to take her challenges head-on, went on to launch her own fashion label and expanded her brand’s customer base to 12 countries and 45 cities. She has also dressed many celebrities including Kiara Advani, Madhuri Dixit, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Trisha Krishnan, PV Sindhu and Allu Arjun. [caption id="attachment_47426" align="aligncenter" width="477"] Fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli | Photo: Instagram[/caption] Learning through mistakes “Everyone has their own idea of learning. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination

Read More

arning. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination and hard work, one can do the impossible.

The Hyderabad-based fashion designer has come a long, long way, and even if she had to take a long, difficult road to achieve her dreams, her creations are making waves across the globe. “I embraced the mindset of ‘doing’, being willing to make small mistakes and allowing circumstances to become my teacher,” she smiles. “Eventually, I realized that I had developed skills that surpassed what some of the highest educational institutions could offer,” she adds

Timeless designs, eco-friendly fashion

Geethika’s collections capture timeless sentiments with organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unique designs, creating an ambience that communicates volumes via touch and texture. “I intend to incorporate natural fabrics into occasion wear,” says Geethika, who is all about making her label eco-friendly and going zero waste. She also designs luxury craft items, tote bags from waste fabrics.

Her newly launched collection ‘Wilderness’, embraces the pure connection between Mother Earth and human emotions. “It captures timeless sentiments through organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unconventional designs,” says the 29-year-old. The heaviest piece in this collection took more than 300 working hours to create.

[caption id="attachment_47427" align="aligncenter" width="511"] The 'Gilded Noir saree set' (hand-embroidered, natural crepe) from the Wilderness collection[/caption]

She has done several exhibitions across the world, including Singapore and US, where she has a huge fan following. Her creations are also available at select stores in the US, UK and Dubai.

A childhood dream

Born in Chennai, Geethika always had a deep fasincation for clothing and fashion, and desired, deep down, to pursue a career that involved it. “Although I did not know what to call it at the time, I later discovered that people referred to this as being a Fashion Designer,” Geethika recalls.

She was so passionate about designing clothes that she would lock her door and play dress-up games on her computer instead of getting ready for school. “When I turned 14, I found myself contemplating how to become a fashion designer, but I had no idea where to begin. I was desperately searching for answers until a relative came into my life and showed me the path,” recalls Geethika, who did her schooling in Chettinaad Vidyashram, Chennai. She then moved to Hyderabad, where she has remained since.

A temporary deviation

However, when the time came to join the 11th grade, she encountered a common tradition in Hyderabad: the expectation to pursue either Engineering or MBBS (medical studies). “Anything other than these options was considered inadequate, and surpassing them was deemed abnormal. Unfortunately, I fell into this trap as well.”Since her math skills were not strong, Geethika chose to study BiPC as a compromise to satisfy the desires of those around me. “After completing my 12th grade, when I wanted to take the entrance exam for a Fashion Design college, everyone tried to convince me to pursue MBBS instead. It took great effort, but I managed to convince them and prepared for the entrance test,” says the ace fashion designer, who has been featured in many international magazines.

A health crisis

However, as she was looking forward to writing the entrance test to get admission in the fashion design institute, fate threw a severe health problem her way. Her  vision began to blur. She was taken to various hospitals to find out what was wrong. “After visiting multiple hospitals, we finally discovered that it was anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots,” informs Geethika.

[caption id="attachment_47428" align="aligncenter" width="482"]Rashmika Mandanna | Geethika Kanumilli | Global Indian 'Animal' actor Rashmika Mandanna wearing a design by Geethika Kanumilli[/caption]

Losing vision in one of her eyes was an incredibly challenging and distressing period for Geethika and her family.  A few months of medications later, she was ready to take her entrance exam. “Unfortunately, it was too late, and the registration had already closed until the following year. I had no choice but to wait. This tested my patience to the extreme, and it felt as if some greater force was at work.”

A time of uncertainty 

Geethika ended up taking a one-year break, hoping the illness would ease.  Nevertheless, her determination to become a fashion designer remained unshaken. The following year, she took the entrance test and got admission into the top Fashion Design college in Hyderabad. “Finally, nothing stood in the way of my dream. I was fully charged and motivated to make the most of this opportunity,” she says.

However, during her second year of college, the same health issue resurfaced and started to affect her working eye, particularly during stitching sessions. “Initially, I managed with the support of my classmates, but eventually, I realized that continuing like that was not feasible. It was at this moment that I recognised the need to let go of my dream of becoming a Fashion Designer permanently,” says Geethika, who felt helpless, and quitting college in the middle of her second year was a significant blow.

“People around me made fun of my decision, and I felt embarrassed for not having a degree. I endured insults and criticism, but I chose not to disclose my health issues to most of my relatives and friends. I didn't want to use it as an excuse.” It was an intense period of uncertainty, and Geethika spent an entire year feeling lost and exhausted from the cycle of quitting and resting.

The decision that changed her life

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Geethika Kanumilli (@kanumilli)

However, one fine morning in 2015, she took a decision, regardless of the outcome. She decided to start my own fashion label as a designer. “I was only 20 then, without any professional work experience or a degree. Many people, including my own family, were against the idea of pursuing something different,” recalls Geethika.

Despite the challenges, she gathered the resources to start a small-scale business, targeting customers within a three-kilometer radius. “I had no prior knowledge or experience in running a business, but I was determined to learn as I went along.”

The initial days of running a business were incredibly challenging. “There were times when my vision would blur, and I would fear that each hard day of work would be my last day of sight. But whenever the choice to quit or continue arose, I was clear from the beginning that I was working for glory, not just for money,” she says.

After three years of consistent hard work, Geethika’s brand's customer base expanded to 12 countries and 45 cities through online sales. “This success brought appreciation from friends and family, who were unaware of the true reason why I had dropped out of college,” she says.

The creative process

When she begins to design a dress for a client, she approaches it with an intense thought: "This person must look their best wherever they go." Although it may sound simple, the intensity with which I think this thought is abnormally high. This mindset drives me to create the most unique color combinations possible,” she says of her work.

For Geethika, her clients are not just customers; they are the medium through which she expresses herself. “Their satisfaction and joy in wearing my designs fuel my passion and remind me that my journey as a fashion designer is far from over.”

Geethika believes her life taught her an important lesson. “When you achieve success, the flaws that others once saw in you become examples for them to follow. The secret is to remember this and strive to reach that point,” she feels.

Telling her story

While many of her friends and relatives were unaware why she had to drop out of college, Geethika revealed it through TEDx. “I have always desired to connect with individuals who may have experienced similar situations, believing that their pain is their enemy. However, looking back, I now understand that pain can be a friend. In my case, without the pain, I would not have been driven to achieve what I have today,” says the fashion designer.

  • Follow Geethika on Instagram and her website.

Share & Follow us

Subscribe News Letter

About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

Read more..
  • Join us
  • Sitemap
  • Terms & Conditions
  • Subscribe
© 2024 Copyright The Global Indian / All rights reserved | This site was made with love by Xavier Augustin