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Turns out, Indian handbag manufacturers have been listening... and delivering.  The women’s handbag market in India has been burgeoning in the past few years.
Global IndianstoryThe Indian handbag brands that are winning internationally
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The Indian handbag brands that are winning internationally

Written by: Global Indian

(July 31, 2021; 6.45 pm) What’s in a bag, you say? A lot actually. Your handbag is not just functional or a mere fashion accessory; it is a personal statement, a way to express yourself, a status symbol if you will. While not everyone is going to be carting along a Louis Vuitton or Hermes, they are definitely going to be wanting to carry along one that is as convenient as it is gorgeous; something that is as durable as it is stylish. And definitely not something that will burn a hole in one’s pocket. 

Turns out, Indian handbag manufacturers have been listening… and delivering.  The women’s handbag market in India has been burgeoning in the past few years. According to a Technavio report, the Indian handbag market could potentially grow by over $207 million from 2021 to 2025. With trends evolving as frequently as the seasons, the scope for this particular market has never looked better. And now, some of these homegrown brands have also expanded their horizons and have begun catering to international clients.  

Global Indian looks at how these Indian brands are changing the handbag game, one stylish design at a time.  

Hidesign 

Indian Handbag Brands

Dilip Kapur

One of the few Indian luxury brands, Hidesign was launched in 1978 by Dilip Kapur in Pondicherry as a form of rebellion against mass produced products. He wanted to create a product that was different from the uniform and synthetic flatness of other leather bags available in the market. While it initially only had customers who weren’t going to mainstream stores, it burst onto the mainstream scene 10 years later. Kapur initially started Hidesign as a hobby: he had worked in a leather factory while doing his PhD at Princeton University. When he came back to Pondicherry, he began making leather bags – his first bag earned him ₹300. He soon launched the company with a capital of ₹25,000 and one cobbler. Hidesign came to be known for its veg tanned, full grain leathers and styles that were quite different from the run-of-the-mill ones available in the market. The brand picked up popularity and has now become a luxury brand across the country and globally with over 102 exclusive stores and a distribution network in 23 countries. 

Da Milano 

Indian Handbag Brands

Sahil Malik with his wife Shivani; Photo Courtesy: You and I

Launched in 2000 by NIFT-graduate Sahil Malik, Da Milano was born primarily because Indian didn’t have any premium handbag store at the time. More often than not, consumers bought their luxury bags from international retailers. Twenty years since its launch, this brand is fashioning a global empire for itself. Today, the brand has over 75 stores and clocked in a turnover of ₹143 core as of 2020. The fact that Da Milano offers a lifetime warranty for all its products has certainly helped it cement the trust-factor. A winning strategy that Malik applied when opening any store was the ‘McDonalds strategy’ of ensuring prime locality/the right real estate to ensure footfall. The brand sources its leather from Italy and Brazil, while the accessories come from China and Hong Kong. Da Milano entered the international markets and currently has a presence in Kathmandu, Qatar, Bahrain, and Dubai. 

Baggit 

Indian Handbag Brands

Nina Lekhi with Shraddha Kapoor

Nina Lekhi was all of 18 when she launched Baggit 30 years ago as an eco-friendly, vegan alternative to the luxury bags available in the market. With an investment of just ₹7,000, Lekhi began selling her bags at exhibitions and supplied to a few retail stores. Soon she was doing her own exhibitions which led to bigger retail outlets such as Shopper’s Stop stocking her collection. When she tried to open her first offline store in 2000, it was a huge dud and she suffered massive losses. Not one to be put off, Lekhi worked her way around the many challenges in her path and today, the brand is rather successful. While, many brands import their materials, Baggit ensures that everything they use is locally sourced. Today, Baggit is worth ₹111 crore with over 360 SKUs and 10 franchised stores. Lekhi now has her sight set on the international market mainly through online channels to begin with.  

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  • ‘McDonalds strategy’
  • Baggit
  • Da Milano
  • Dilip Kapur
  • Global Indian
  • handbags
  • Hermes
  • Hidesign
  • Indian brands
  • Louis Vuitton
  • Nina Lekhi
  • Princeton University
  • Sahil Malik

Published on 31, Jul 2021

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Unveiling the icon: Fashion maestro Rocky S redefines luxury and comfort

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[caption id="attachment_40672" align="aligncenter" width="573"] Rocky S[/caption]

The Mumbaikar

Born in Mumbai, Maharashtra in October 1970, a city he describes as brimming with culture and creativity, Rocky faced the loss of his father at a young age. “But my mother’s unwavering strength became a guiding light in my life,” informs Rocky, who has two elder brothers, one a chartered accountant and the other has made his mark in the realm of business construction.

Even back then, Rocky showed a deep interest in sartorial pursuits. “I still remember during holidays, my grandmother would create stunning outfits from scratch and lovingly gift them to us. I was truly captivated by the artistry of transforming a single piece of fabric into such garments,” smiles the ace designer. Alongside his passion for fashion, Rocky discovered an affinity for swimming, a sport that has influenced his life and values and remains indelible.

He went on to graduate with a bachelor’s degree in commerce, but swiftly transitioned to pursue his dreams in fashion design, enrolling at the esteemed JD Institute in Mumbai.

Brand Rocky S 

His process begins with inspiration. "It consumes a significant portion of my time," he admits, "but serves as a catalyst for my creative flow. Once I find the perfect inspirations, my sketches come to life effortlessly." This inspriation springs from the people who hace influenced him, and played role in shaping his creative vision.

Rocky’s art is shaped by his love for travel, which he says ignited a passion for exploration. During his travels, he encountered remarkable gothic and baroque designs, which became a fount of inspiration for the ace designer. “These influences, combined with my unwavering vision, propelled me to establish my own brand in 1995, with a resolute mission to create relevant and luxurious couture for the ever-evolving women of today,” recalls Rocky, who is well known for his artistic mind and penchant for invention.

 

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Over time, he nurtured a self-sustaining unit, housing skilled master craftsmen and artisans, who breathe life into each intricately designed piece.  “At our atelier, we prioritize the art of precision, focusing on cut, comfort, fit, and finish, resulting in exquisite haute couture, bridal wear, luxury pret-a-porter, and accessories,” says Rocky.

Rocky now ships his creations worldwide, marking a remarkable evolution from his humble beginnings. “Today, we showcase our collections in prestigious multi-designer stores while maintaining our flagship store in Mumbai—a physical manifestation of our brand's essence, inviting fashion enthusiasts to immerse themselves in our world of style and craftsmanship,” he says.

Dressing up Beyoncé 

Back in 2007, Rocky was pleasantly surprised to receive a phone call from the manager of superstar Beyonce, who was expected in Mumbai for a performance. The manager requested Rocky to bring a selection of outfits for the upcoming concert. “I swiftly gathered my team of assistants and headed to the hotel, armed with a carefully curated collection of 10-12 exquisite ensembles.”

As he presented the options to Beyonce, her eyes lit up with delight and after careful consideration, she ultimately chose the resplendent pink lehenga-choli for her stellar performance, says Rocky. He doesn’t just cater to the stars and their high-profile events, however. He works with the common people as well, and has established a reputation in the fashion community for offering a combination of style and comfort.

Association with ‘Miss India’

For many years, Rocky has served as the fashion director for Miss World, and has had a long association with the Miss Indian pageant – he was an official designer for Femina Miss India 2023 as well. He curates wardrobes for winners at events and red carpets.

This year, he says, his association with the pageant grew stronger as he had the honor of designing every gown for the state winners. “The collection of gowns exudes classic sophistication with a contemporary twist feature simple appliqué patchwork of cut Dana and stones. The delicate embroidery adds just the right amount of sparkle and texture to the gowns,” he explains. Only the finest silk, taffeta and velvet were used to create the meticulously-crafted gowns.

Future plans

Currently immersed in creating his newest collection, Rocky is pouring all his creative energy into the smallest details. “My strategy is to expand the brand’s presence by opening new stores both within India and abroad,” he says. “This decision is driven by the growing demand from our esteemed clientele, who hail from diverse locations such as the US, Canada, London, and Dubai,” Rocky adds.

Rocky’s other interests

Rocky is someone whose interests encompass a wide range of sources that fuel his creative spirit. “While I don't have a specific hobby per se, I find immense joy in traveling, immersing myself in different cultures, and drawing inspiration from the vibrant tapestry of the world.” He also enjoys techno music, which he says resonates with his artistic sensibilities and serves as a backdrop for his creative process.

Fashion in India

Coming to the fashion scene in India, Rocky says people are currently embracing and celebrating a captivating neon revival, which has brought a fresh burst of energy and vibrancy to the scene. “Alongside this exciting trend, they are also exploring a myriad of captivating variations in saree styles, pushing the boundaries of traditional attire. These variations encompass a wide spectrum of design elements, ranging from unconventional draping techniques to experimentation with fabrics, textures, and embellishments,” explains the fashion designer.

Moreover, the anticipated rise in luxury spending in India by 2030 presents a promising landscape for the industry, he feels. “This upward trend in luxury spending suggests a growing demand for exclusive and high-end fashion products, creating a favorable environment for designers to showcase their craftsmanship and creativity as well,” he says, adding that opens up exciting opportunities to cater to the discerning tastes and aspirations of affluent clientele.

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Bringing Indian handloom to global market

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he was making Indian handlooms popular globally at a time when Make In India hadn't become the buzzword. Soon he launched his eponymous label and showcased his work at fashion weeks in Dubai, London and Australia.

[caption id="attachment_13954" align="aligncenter" width="667"]Rahul Mishra Rahuk Mishra with a model. (Photo Courtesy: Vogue)[/caption]

But showcasing his collection at Paris Fashion Week is what changed the trajectory of his career. Mishra, who calls himself a storyteller and believes that every garment has a soul and a philosophy behind it, became the first Indian ever to win the International Woolmark Prize, thus catapulting him into the league of Karl Lagerfeld and Giorgio Armani. Suzy Menkes, the popular fashion critic, called Mishra a "national treasure" after his spectacular win.

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Mishra's work has found resonance in India and abroad. Known to add milestones in journey, Mishra became the first Indian designer to showcase haute couture at Paris Fashion Week in 2020. In just over a decade, Mishra has become a global name in the world of fashion, and it's his philosophy that has worked wonders for him. "Fashion is influenced by my memories of childhood and also the people I meet, but innovation comes from within. I follow a design process which I inculcated in National Institute of Design. So for me it's not just about a person wearing a shirt or a dress, there is an entire philosophy behind it. This invisible, intangible philosophy is much like A R Rahman's music, something original, pure and untouched, that is fashion for me," he told Business Standard.

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A heart condition that put her dreams on hold

Born in 1996 in Ludhiana, Punjab in a traditional family, Saini moved to Washington in the United States at the age of five. Seeing the Miss World pageant on television, Saini was intrigued by the world of glamor and service at a very young age. She was just six when she dressed up as Miss World for her school event, and knew that this was something that she would want to become someday. But amid the starry dreams, life was set to take a U-turn for this young girl when she was diagnosed with a rare heart condition at the age of 12. Her condition caused led her heart to beat only 20 times per minute as opposed to the normal 70 times per minute. She had to undergo an open heart surgery where a pacemaker was inserted to help her heart function properly.

"That was a huge turning point for me. I was told that I couldn't dance or play sports, and it felt like my life just stopped. I thought I would have to live on a machine. But I wasn't going to let that adversity stop me," she told Spokesman in an interview.

An advocate of mental health

While Saini was going through her health crisis, her days in school were equally nightmarish as she was subjected to bullying for years. She felt like an outcast at school for being a person of color. However, she didn't let any of this affect her as she became an advocate of heart health and mental health. At 15, when her mother fell seriously ill and had to be put on life support, Saini decided to start her own NGO to help others, who were dealing with depression like her. Her difficult times helped her adopt a solution-oriented mindset, and that's what kept her afloat all these years.

"My parents taught me about the ‘charity of spirit’ that means overlooking offenses and highlighting only the good in others. We should always try to defuse the negativity in any situation and focus on the light within all of us. Your life’s legacy is defined by how you make people feel, with each vibe/interaction/conversation and the positive difference you make in other’s lives in your lifetime," she told India-West.

 

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With a pacemaker in her heart, Saini had to bid adieu to dance for some time but she used that time to enroll in public speaking courses. "In elementary school, I began dancing in my living room. At that time, I didn’t have dance lessons because we lived in a small town of 2,000 people. In middle school, when we moved to a bigger town, I received a pacemaker, so I had to take years away from dance, but I used that time to enroll in public speaking courses. In high school, I officially started my nonprofit and found ways to give back at every fundraising and speaking events during weekends," she added.

If she started finding solace in giving back, she also put on her dancing shoes after a hiatus to get back to something she loved the most. Two years after her surgery, Saini trained in ballet and was soon accepted to the New York City Joffrey Ballet, an offer she did not take up. Instead, she took a gap year, and spent some time in India travelling to Kolkata and Punjab. She later studied non-proft management at Harvard, acting at the Yale School of Drama, social entrepreneurship at Stanford and journalism at the University of Washington.

 

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A near fatal accident

Things once again took a hard turn for Saini when during her college days she met with a near fatal accident. While driving on an icy patch in Moses Lake in 2016, her car skid off the road and rolled into a ditch. She wasn't just extensively bruised but her face suffered partial burns. "I had to wear a giant hat and a face mask or my skin would burn because of the sun." Seeing the gravity of situation, her doctors gave a year of recovery time but the 24-year-old bounced back strong in less than a month. "My parents really helped me in that moment of adversity. They told me to constantly choose resilience. And I think in our life, we are going to always, be met with hardships but what truly defines our life is our choices that we make," she told ABC7.

Journey to stardom

A year later, she dipped her toes in the world of glamor when she participated in Miss India-USA and won the title. In 2020, she won the World Peace Messenger Award from Passion Vista. But it was in October 2021 that Saini scripted history by becoming the first Indian-American to win the Miss World America 2021 title. "I am happy and quite nervous. I can't express my feelings (in words). All the credit goes to my parents, especially my mother because of whose support I am here. Thank you Miss World America for this honour," she said in a statement.

 

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She also holds the position of Miss World America National Beauty with a Purpose Ambassador, something she earned by working tirelessly to help those less fortunate and in need. Among her many accomplishments, her work has been recognized by UNICEF, Doctors without Borders, Susan G Komen, and many others.

Shree Saini has fought many adversities to reach the top and is the perfect example that anything is possible if you are determined to persevere.

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How Indian fashion designer Saisha Shinde gave transgenders a shot in the arm, and Miss Universe Harnaaz her look

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e more special,” smiles the Indian fashion designer who started accepting her alternative sexuality at NIFT.

[caption id="attachment_18420" align="aligncenter" width="485"]Harnaaz Sandhu Harnaaz Sandhu, Miss Universe India 2021, wearing Saisha Shinde's creation.[/caption]

Designing the stunning gown that Harnaaz sported, Saisha says, “Harnaaz trusted the experts completely. I always ask my clients a few basic questions - favourite colour, where they hail from, favourite flower etc. Having known that Harnaaz is from Punjab, where the phulkari motif originated, I wanted to take the phulkari geometric shape, and convert it into a mosaic. Miss Indias’ have a specific look, so we needed to follow that and make Harnaaz look exquisite.” The NIFT graduate interned at the renowned House of Versace in Italy, which has given her a depth and versatility evident in her designs.

How the "trans" journey began

On Saisha’s coming out, she reveals that that her simple Maharashtrian parents, albeit shocked, accepted her truth wholeheartedly. “My relationship with my mother has grown leaps and bounds. We always underestimate our parents – it’s important to communicate with them with respect and not rebellion. In other situations, you have to be rebellious sometimes,” quips Saisha. She also touches upon how living in a democracy should mean that people can voice opinions for marginalised communities like hers, “The only way to spread the message is to shout, I do it with full swing when the work is not done on time!” she tells Global Indian.

 

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After years of being Swapnil, why did Saisha decide to come out this year? “I knew that I was going to come out. I was waiting to accept it. I could not see myself leading a double life – I wanted to live a life of truth and have nothing to hide. I came out for myself - I didn’t expect it to become what it became, but I’m glad it did because it’s opened doors for a host of trans people in India. It’s been inspiring to get inspired by others,” says the gutsy designer, who received overwhelming support on social media after her announcement.

Coming out has lifted a huge burden off the 39-year-old’s mind, yet it comes with its share of difficult learnings too. “I now understand what women go through every single day. Women are expected to behave, talk, dress and sit in a certain way. As a male, I didn’t have to face this. It didn’t even occur to me that I had to sit and stand a certain way. As for my professional life, I’m lucky to hail from an industry that’s accepting and more inclusive than any other profession - they have accepted me with open arms. We have so many gay men, lesbian women and trans men and women behind the scenes and we’re all paid properly and treated well. I always felt a sense of security here,” says Saisha who hails from Maharashtra.

[caption id="attachment_18421" align="aligncenter" width="501"]Saisha Shinde Saisha Shinde[/caption]

How her designs emulated her persona

After years of designing clothes for women as a man, Saisha admits that after she came out as a trans woman, the way she looks at women’s design has changed drastically. “At first, I would create without thinking too much about the woman or what she’s about. Now, I’m conscious about what I’m making and for who. Earlier, comfort played an insignificant role when designing, but now, comfort is the number one priority. For me, it’s a revolutionary change,” she muses.

As someone who designs for Bollywood stars, how does the film industry see trans people? “Many are ignorant and have pre-set notions. A few trailblazing transwomen like Gazal Dhaliwal and Trinetra Haldar are breaking norms. It’s just a matter of time when representation of our community will be visible in films or TV shows,” mulls Saisha.

 

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Being different, being true

When it comes to the alarming stereotypes about her community, Saisha shares, “Everyone thinks that transgenders are eunuchs and that’s not the case. They also think that we have a disease that’s contagious and that they might turn trans if they touch us! People also think that men dressing as women for entertainment and humour are ‘us,’ but that is not ‘us.’ Those are men who are cross-dressers or men who are doing drag.”

Dressing the stars

On the work front, Saisha’s clientele includes Bollywood superstars like Madhuri Dixit, Kareena Kapoor and Anushka Sharma. Her all-time favourite is the woman she grew up idolising. “When I was in school, I’d lock my bedroom door and dance to Madhuri’s songs. Eventually, I got to work with her and that alone made me feel successful. She’s so amazing to work with – she’s loyal and gives one creative freedom. I also like dressing up Deepika Padukone as anything you give her looks good on her!”

In the world of fashion, Saisha’s idols include the late Wendell Rodricks, Anaita Shroff Adajania, Shaleena Nathani, Eka Lakhani and Sabina Chopra (her mentor since day one). Her future projects are the magnum opus Ponniyan Selvan: I, directed by the Mani Ratnam, where Saisha got to dress up the ethereal Aishwarya Rai. “In collaboration with Eka Lakhani, we have created costumes for Aishwarya, Trisha and a few other cast members. I get to work with Mani sir and that’s a dream come true. I’ve also designed for Deepika for a song in Pathan (which stars Shah Rukh Khan) and there are a few other interesting projects in the pipeline.”

 

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Shinde hopes to make metro inhabitants aware of the trans community, and hopes the community will get a separate employment quota one day. “They should be able to get legal documents without hassles. Once this happens in big cities, we can target tier-2 and 3 cities,” she adds.

When she’s not working, Saisha is inevitably engrossed in fashion shows on TV, and voraciously reads about fashion. Having trained at Shaimak Davar’s dance school in jazz and funk, she now intends to learn Bharatanatyam and Kathak. Saisha’s also has another aspiring dream – to be awarded the prestigious Padma Shri like Manjamma Jogath, the first transgender to bag the award. “I felt so proud when I heard that. I prayed that I stand in her place one day,” she signs off.

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Priya Ahluwalia: The London-based designer is saving the planet with every new collection

(October 18, 2021) Her eponymous label found its roots in heritage and sustainability. Who could have thought that a trip to Lagos in Nigeria and Panipat in India would give birth to a fashion label that will become the face of sustainable fashion in international market? Meet Priya Ahluwalia, a London-based designer who is making people rethink their choices in fashion like no one else. The 29-year-old, in a short span, has become a name to reckon with and is making people sit up and take notice of her designs, one collection at a time. The designer, who made it to the Forbes 30 Under 30 list last year, is rising up the ladder with her craft that is hugely influenced by her Indian and Nigerian heritage. Here's the story of this Global Indian who is consciously working to save the planet with every design that she creates. [caption id="attachment_13328" align="aligncenter" width="658"] Priya Ahluwalia with her models[/caption] A trip to two countries set the course for her career Born to an Indian mother and a Nigerian father in London in 1992, Ahluwalia was always fascinated by colors and fashion. In her words, her mother was quite stylish and she loved

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g" alt="Priya Ahluwalia" width="658" height="369" /> Priya Ahluwalia with her models[/caption]

A trip to two countries set the course for her career

Born to an Indian mother and a Nigerian father in London in 1992, Ahluwalia was always fascinated by colors and fashion. In her words, her mother was quite stylish and she loved trying on her clothes constantly. This love for clothing gave birth to her desire of becoming a fashion designer. But since Ahluwalia was quite studious, her mom was keen to make her a lawyer. So when she decided to fulfill her childhood dream and enrolled in the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom for a course in fashion, her family was quite shocked. However, Ahluwalia was sure about her decision.

But during her graduation, something peculiar happened and it set the course of her career. It was on a trip to Nigeria to meet her father in 2017 that Ahluwalia noticed hawkers on the streets of Lagos wearing some obscure items of British clothing. An inquisitive Ahluwalia rolled down the windows of her car to indulge in a chit-chat with them asking them about their clothes. That small rendezvous and some research on the internet led her to the the second-hand clothing market in the city that has stocks coming in from unwanted donations to British charity shops and then sold by various traders for profit. The journey of these clothes left Ahluwalia fascinated and she was keen to explore more about the huge amounts of clothes that are discarded by Western countries each year.

 

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This led her to Panipat in India, a city that's often described as the garment recycling capital of the world. Seeing the colossal amount of waste clothing that was stacked into mountainous piles and sorted by color, Ahluwalia was both disturbed as well as moved with the scale of the problem. Since the 29-year-old was studying on the Menswear MA course at London's Westminster University, this inspired her collection during her MA.

"All of this shocked me in a number of ways. Firstly, I couldn't believe that secondhand clothing was such a big business. I was also completely shocked at the sheer amount of clothes that are discarded, I had never really thought about it properly before. I suppose it is easy to ignore something that you don't really see. It also really made me cherish craft and tradition in textiles," she told Ignant in an interview.

The birth of her label

During her trip to both the countries, Ahluwalia began to document what she saw as photographs and soon released a book titled Sweet Lassi that had the imagery of these places as well as the pictures from her MA collection which was made from repurposed fabrics. It was the success of the book and collection that brought the second-hand garment industry onto fashion agenda. Her graduation collection was purchased by British retailer LN-CC and this eventually led to launch her label, Ahluwalia with sustainable principles.

Her debut collection was proof of her conscious choices as she used second hand garment reworked as menswear to highlight the industry's problem with waste. It's not just her technique and material choice but also her production methods that set her apart as a designer. For her Summer Spring 2019 collection, the beading on her patchwork pants was done by Sewa Delhi, an organization that specializes in getting rural Indian women into fairly paid work that fits around their family schedule. The collection was such a hit that it won her the H&M Global Design Award 2019. The same year she collaborated with Adidas at Paris Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2019 and took over the ramp at London Fashion Week 2020 with her Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

 

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Sustainable fashion is the key

All the pieces at Ahluwalia are made exclusively from recycled deadstock. She is one of those rare young designers who are openly addressing issues like climate crisis and sustainability. "I think the correlation between young designers talking about these issues is that more young designers are of BAME (Black, Asian, Minority Ethnic) backgrounds than ever before. This means that for the first time, designers from ethnic minorities are able to share their stories and work through their own voice," the Forbes 30 Under 30 designer told CNN.

Since the launch of her label, Ahulwalia has been drawing inspiration from her Indian and Nigerian roots for her collection, and that's what makes her work unique and intriguing at the same time. "I am always inspired by my heritage and upbringing. I am Nigerian and Indian, and I was brought up in London, they are all places with such a wealth of culture and inspiration. I love the vibrancy of Lagos style, the craftsmanship of Indian textiles and the typical mixed wardrobe of a London man. They fuse together to create collections that are serious and playful at the same time," she told GQ.

 

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In just three years, Ahluwalia has become a rising star in fashion - someone who is making the world rethink about their sartorial choices and asking the fashion industry to make conscious choice to reduce the carbon footprint by opting for sustainable fashion.

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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