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Saran Kohli
Global IndianstorySaran Kohli: The British-Indian designer who nailed Hollywood with Marvel’s Eternals
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Saran Kohli: The British-Indian designer who nailed Hollywood with Marvel’s Eternals

Written by: Global Indian

(September 17, 2021) Handlebar moustache and a sleek style is what makes British-Indian designer Saran Kohli stand out among the rest. The 34-year-old, who has an eponymous label, has become a name to reckon with in the fashion circles. So much so that even Hollywood‘s biggest studio Marvel couldn’t ignore the designer who has styled the who’s who of the entertainment industry. Kohli, who fell in love with fashion as a teenager while helping his mom set up her boutique, has now designed for one of the most-anticipated films of 2021 Eternals.

Kohli, who started with big labels like Hugo Boss and Banana Republic, has come a long way in his Global Indian journey.

Baby steps into fashion

Born in East London in a Sikh family to immigrant parents who moved to the UK in the 70s, Kohli shifted to India at the age of two after his parents’ divorce. It was in New Delhi that Kohli spent his initial days at his grandparents house while his mother started her own fashion business to build a new life for them. India gave Kohli the perfect opportunity to embrace his culture, and after spending 10 years, he returned to London with his mom where she opened her first boutique.

It was his mom’s boutique that became a schooling ground for Kohli in fashion. He would spend hours helping her in her sales and choreographing catwalk shows and that’s how Kohli was introduced to the world of fashion. The texture, fabric and cuts is something that always attracted Kohli, and soon he found himself enrolled in London College of Fashion. After graduating in fashion management, Kohli found himself working for Japanese designer Michiko Koshino as a public relations and marketing assistant. This first hand experience of working with a designer helped Kohli understand the nuances of the craft and opened doors for him in labels like Hugo Boss and Banana Republic.

Knocking on the door with eponymous label

After learning the trick of the trade from the masters, Kohli launched his own fashion label Saran Kohli in 2009 – a one-stop shop for designer menswear. “I wanted to find that fine line between my heritage and a sartorial finishing with an informal approach to clothing where it could be worn in multiple fashion,” he told Voice of Fashion. While his collections are manufactured in the UK and Europe, his craftsmanship is rooted in India as he works with the artisan families that his mom originally collaborated with.

 

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Within two years of introducing his label, Kohli bagged the Best Newcomer Award in Fashion Design at International Asian Fashion Awards 2011. This catapulted Kohli’s business and in no time, Saran Kohli Label became a favorite with celebrities across the globe. From singer Jay Sean to cricketer Sachin Tendulkar to Mayor of London Sadiq Khan, Kohli has styled the best in the world. It’s Kohli love for music, dance, travel and culture that often inspire his collections.

After featuring in New York Times, GQ UK, UK Esquire and Asian Wealth Magazine, Saran Kohli Label opened its first official store in London in 2016, and has been going strong ever since. While Kohli has styled some of most well-known personalities, his real big break came in the form of Marvel’s Eternals.

The Marvel moment

It was in 2019 that a call from Marvel Studios‘s costume department that took Kohli by surprise. The designer received a request to create outfits for 52 dancers for a sequence in Marvel’s most-anticipated film Eternals that has Kumail Nanjiani playing the first South Asian superhero. Kohli, who himself is a choreographer and dancer, leapt at the opportunity. Keeping up with Marvel’s stringent confidentiality protocols, Kohli couldn’t understand the magnitude of the project till he signed on the dotted lines.

“It was a direct call from the costume department of Marvel Studios. Initially, they didn’t even tell me if it was for a film. They just told me that they are looking for some costumes for this scene that has got a bit of a dance sequence. This is the kind of feel. I didn’t interrogate so much initially because I have done film costume design in the past and I thought it must be one of those regular films only. Later when they sent an email, the film name was different, it was a made-up name of a film. They asked me to meet them at the Pinewood Studios. And when they took this name I figured out that it is going to be a big-budget film. I initially thought it might be a Bollywood flick. But later when I spoke to one of the heads of the costume department at Marvel, I realized it was something big for sure,” he told the Times of India.

Working with Marvel Studio was an enriching experience for Kohli as it gave him a chance to represent his Indian roots. “Marvel doesn’t just have an American audience, it is in every corner of the earth. It makes us feel appreciated and also inspires a lot of young talent to embrace who we are,” he added.

Vitiligo awareness

While Kohli was all over the news for bagging a plum project like Marvels, his range of vitiligo masks in 2020 equally became the talk of the town. For someone who has struggled with the skin condition for years, Kohli decided to spread awareness and combat the stigma around it through his new range. It was the age of 16 that Kohli saw the first white spot on his face and for years, he hid it behind his glasses and full-length clothing. It took him many years to be comfortable in his skin, and now he has started a dialogue to create awareness on vitiligo with his collection.

 

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A post shared by Saran Kohli (@sarankohli)

“It is a great time to open up the avenues of fashion to the debate surrounding skin and a person’s skin color. We, as a generation, have been able to vocally express things that the previous generation has not been able to do,” he told Indulge Express. Parts of the proceeds raised for the range were donated to the Vitiligo Society as a part of his advocacy and awareness campaign.

Vitiligo Society

The 34-year-old Kohli, who fell in love with fashion at a young age, found his true calling in his label. And the designer has now put Indian fashion on the global map by designing for one of the biggest Hollywood films.

 

 

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  • Banana Republic
  • Eternals
  • Hugo Boss
  • International Asian Fashion Awards
  • Jay Sean
  • Kumail Nanjiani
  • London College of Fashion.
  • Marvel Studio
  • Michiko Koshino
  • Sachin Tendulkar
  • Sadiq Khan
  • Saran Kohli
  • Saran Kohli Label
  • Vitiligo Society

Published on 17, Sep 2021

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g" alt="Priya Ahluwalia" width="658" height="369" /> Priya Ahluwalia with her models[/caption]

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In just three years, Ahluwalia has become a rising star in fashion - someone who is making the world rethink about their sartorial choices and asking the fashion industry to make conscious choice to reduce the carbon footprint by opting for sustainable fashion.

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[caption id="attachment_15381" align="aligncenter" width="588"]Jayati Sinha Jayati Sinha with local artisans.[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_15383" align="aligncenter" width="685"]Jayati Sinha Pop Hut designed by Jayati Sinha[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_15384" align="aligncenter" width="527"]Jayati Sinha Jayati Sinha[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_57652" align="aligncenter" width="267"]Nikita Karizma | Indian fashion designer in UK | Global Indian Nikita Karizma[/caption]

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Nikita Karizma | Indian fashion designer in UK | Global Indian

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The university was well-connected in industry circles and Nikita Karizma was still a bright-eyed student when she received a styling request that blew her away, from Lady Gaga. The popstar, who is known for supporting young designers, went on to be styled by Nikita.

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Nikita Karizma | Indian fashion designer in UK | Global Indian

The young designer remained unfazed by the fact that she was different. "My family prepared me for it. They told me not to worry about being in a minority and to just focus on my talent and skillset," she says, adding, "That's the only thing which matters in the long term. Ultimately, it comes down to your product." These were also the early days of social media, and influencers weren't really a thing. "It wasn't a desirable career path and a job. People didn't understand the path I had taken." This was also before the world had taken to posting every detail of their lives on social media. With very little documentation, the fashion industry remained insulated from the rest of the world. Things have come a long way since, and now, being a fashion designer is a highly sought-after job. "These days, when I post videos of what I do at work, they are seen as aspirational. But it's also a saturated and competitive market," she says. She kept her head down and focussed on her skillsets, and on creating the best products. "Ultimately, if your work is good, people want to wear them. As long as that happens, I know I can carry on in the long term."

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Embroidering her way to glory: Ruma Devi is putting Rajasthan’s handwoven designs on the global fashion map

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er doing embroidery work. In fact, almost every house in the Barmer district used to wear clothes with embroidery done by women of the house. I never thought that I’d do it one day, but learnt it anyway," Ruma tells Global Indian.

Coming from a conservative rural family, Ruma dropped out of school at an early age and was married at 16. She didn't even understand the responsibilities of her marriage when a tragedy struck. "I was lost and I was coming to terms with it when the most devastating thing happened. I lost my first child due to an illness. I didn't have enough money to get my child the right treatment. It angered me so much and I went into depression," recalls the handicraft artisan.

Handicraft Artisan | Ruma Devi

Still in her late teens, she knew she had a long life ahead, but the child's face kept haunting her. "I couldn't do anything and felt aimless. I decided to distract myself with something that could keep me occupied." She had two options, either to work as a maid in someone's house or take up embroidery and try her luck. "I decided to pick embroidery. I could do embroidery on bags that villagers carry when they visit their relatives. But I had no money to get the bags in the first place," laughs Ruma. In 2008, she convinced a few women to come together and buy a sewing machine for stitching bags and do embroidery on them. "We bought a second-hand sewing machine and that's how we started, she adds.

 

Few months into it, Ruma realised there wasn’t enough work. "After all, how many bags could we sell to the people in the village," she says. That’s when the search for new customers began which brought them to Gramin Vikas Evam Chetna Sansthan (GVCS), an NGO that works for the upliftment of women in the region. "They gave us three days to finish an embroidery assignment and bring the bags to them. Everybody was so thrilled that we worked the entire night, and were done with our job by the next day," laughs Ruma, for whom there was no looking back as she kept getting more work from the sansthan, which she would head a few years down the line!

[caption id="attachment_24588" align="aligncenter" width="960"]Handicraft Artisan | Ruma Devi Ruma Devi receives Nari Shakti Award from Ram Nath Kovind[/caption]

The challenges along the way

While Ruma and her group of women were expanding to nearby villages and had become a big collective of talented artisans, voices of discouragement tried to dampen their spirit. Many women were not allowed to step out of their homes despite their success. But Ruma convinced them to work from their homes while those allowed to step out would do the marketing bit in districts outside Barmer. Soon people started liking their work and more work followed.

It was time to step out of Rajasthan, and a trade show in Delhi in 2011 was the perfect opportunity to do that. But the decision didn’t find much support from her family members as she was charting into an unknown territory. Ruma had butterflies, but she feared nothing. Although the business was not great, it helped her understand the market well. The next year brought with it ₹11 lakh, which was way beyond their expectation. This helped the women to believe in themselves and in the leadership of Ruma.

Handicraft Artisan | Ruma Devi

What began with Ruma is now 30,000 strong. Currently women do applique and various types of embroidery work on upholstery items and everyday clothes. "We have uplifted many families from poverty," she beams with pride.

In 2010, Ruma took over as the president of GVCS and under her leadership, it has expanded operations to 75 villages and trained 11,000 artisans so far. The organisation is now collaborating with tribal women and taking it across India and to the world. The 32-year-old also collaboratively started sister producer company, Applique Handicrafts Producer Company for artisans.

The Fashion Diva

The ramp bug bit Ruma after she witnessed a fashion show in Jaipur a few years ago, and since her band of women were designing clothes too, she wanted to give it a try.

Handicraft Artisan | Ruma Devi

“Again, people within and outside said that our clothes were not made for the ramp and that we should stick to what we were doing. But since we had come this far, I saw no harm in trying something new," says Ruma, adding, "I felt a fashion show would be a good platform to showcase our work yet I had no clue how to go about it. A few designers told me, 'You are supposed to stitch and not just embroider. Stitching is not your thing’.” These hurtful remarks made Ruma more determined to participate. She wanted people to see the artisans who often remain voiceless and faceless in the glamourous world of fashion.

In 2016, Ruma and her team designed clothes for a fashion show at the Rajasthan Heritage Week, and they were an instant hit. Soon designers started making their way to Barmer to know more about their work and designs. Since then, she has not only worked with best in the Indian and global fashion circuit like Bibi Russell and Abraham & Thakore, she has also  visited Germany, Singapore, Thailand, Sri Lanka, the US and UAE to promote the arts and craft. "Our designs are now sold in various parts of the world. We have also started shipping our line of home furnishing lines of products to USA, Dubai and UK," reveals the handicraft artisan.

Memorable moments

Life has taught Ruma that the sky is the limit if one is determined to overcome obstacles. A school dropout, Ruma received an honorary PhD from Mahatma Jyoti Rao Phule University, Jaipur in 2020. In 2019, she made an appearance at Kaun Banega Crorepati, "I was very nervous that I would sit next to Amitabh Bachchan. But he was so warm and gentle that I felt very comfortable," Ruma shares.

[caption id="attachment_24586" align="aligncenter" width="505"]Handicraft Artisan | Ruma Devi Ruma Devi with Amitabh Bachchan on the sets of Kaun Banega Crorepati[/caption]

The very next year, she organised a crafts workshop at the Harvard University, wherein she was invited as a speaker for their 17th annual India Conference. But she procrastinated it for a bit as she was “shocked” by the invite and “ignored it for a few weeks.”  Recalling the time, she says, “Firstly, I didn't dare to reply to that mail. Secondly, it was an expensive trip to go to the USA." But with the help of Bajaj Group, who sponsored her trip, she could do it.

Ruma might have been born in a small village in Rajasthan, but once she discovered the talent inside her, she never looked back. "I am a very ordinary woman who didn't know about her purpose, but things happened, and I never lost faith in my ability or in the women who trusted me," the handicraft artisan signs off.

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Reading Time: 7 mins

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Creative eye: How designer Geethika Kanumilli overcame a health crisis to achieve global fashion success

(December 13, 2023) Designer Geethika Kanumilli’s world collapsed when she was diagnosed with anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots. It led to the loss of vision in one of her eyes and threatened to put a full stop to her childhood dream of becoming a fashion designer. Geethika Kanumilli was not one to give up, however, not even when her eye condition worsened to the point where she had to drop out of fashion school. The iron-willed designer decided to take her challenges head-on, went on to launch her own fashion label and expanded her brand’s customer base to 12 countries and 45 cities. She has also dressed many celebrities including Kiara Advani, Madhuri Dixit, Samantha Ruth Prabhu, Trisha Krishnan, PV Sindhu and Allu Arjun. [caption id="attachment_47426" align="aligncenter" width="477"] Fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli | Photo: Instagram[/caption] Learning through mistakes “Everyone has their own idea of learning. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination

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arning. Some believe it comes from earning a degree, reading books, or gaining work experience. For me, learning meant taking action,” points out fashion designer Geethika Kanumilli, in an exclusive with Global Indian. With no business or fashion background and no degree, Geethika has proved that through determination and hard work, one can do the impossible.

The Hyderabad-based fashion designer has come a long, long way, and even if she had to take a long, difficult road to achieve her dreams, her creations are making waves across the globe. “I embraced the mindset of ‘doing’, being willing to make small mistakes and allowing circumstances to become my teacher,” she smiles. “Eventually, I realized that I had developed skills that surpassed what some of the highest educational institutions could offer,” she adds

Timeless designs, eco-friendly fashion

Geethika’s collections capture timeless sentiments with organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unique designs, creating an ambience that communicates volumes via touch and texture. “I intend to incorporate natural fabrics into occasion wear,” says Geethika, who is all about making her label eco-friendly and going zero waste. She also designs luxury craft items, tote bags from waste fabrics.

Her newly launched collection ‘Wilderness’, embraces the pure connection between Mother Earth and human emotions. “It captures timeless sentiments through organic shapes, flowing fabrics and unconventional designs,” says the 29-year-old. The heaviest piece in this collection took more than 300 working hours to create.

[caption id="attachment_47427" align="aligncenter" width="511"] The 'Gilded Noir saree set' (hand-embroidered, natural crepe) from the Wilderness collection[/caption]

She has done several exhibitions across the world, including Singapore and US, where she has a huge fan following. Her creations are also available at select stores in the US, UK and Dubai.

A childhood dream

Born in Chennai, Geethika always had a deep fasincation for clothing and fashion, and desired, deep down, to pursue a career that involved it. “Although I did not know what to call it at the time, I later discovered that people referred to this as being a Fashion Designer,” Geethika recalls.

She was so passionate about designing clothes that she would lock her door and play dress-up games on her computer instead of getting ready for school. “When I turned 14, I found myself contemplating how to become a fashion designer, but I had no idea where to begin. I was desperately searching for answers until a relative came into my life and showed me the path,” recalls Geethika, who did her schooling in Chettinaad Vidyashram, Chennai. She then moved to Hyderabad, where she has remained since.

A temporary deviation

However, when the time came to join the 11th grade, she encountered a common tradition in Hyderabad: the expectation to pursue either Engineering or MBBS (medical studies). “Anything other than these options was considered inadequate, and surpassing them was deemed abnormal. Unfortunately, I fell into this trap as well.”Since her math skills were not strong, Geethika chose to study BiPC as a compromise to satisfy the desires of those around me. “After completing my 12th grade, when I wanted to take the entrance exam for a Fashion Design college, everyone tried to convince me to pursue MBBS instead. It took great effort, but I managed to convince them and prepared for the entrance test,” says the ace fashion designer, who has been featured in many international magazines.

A health crisis

However, as she was looking forward to writing the entrance test to get admission in the fashion design institute, fate threw a severe health problem her way. Her  vision began to blur. She was taken to various hospitals to find out what was wrong. “After visiting multiple hospitals, we finally discovered that it was anti-phospholipid syndrome, an irreversible immune system disorder that leads to abnormal blood clots,” informs Geethika.

[caption id="attachment_47428" align="aligncenter" width="482"]Rashmika Mandanna | Geethika Kanumilli | Global Indian 'Animal' actor Rashmika Mandanna wearing a design by Geethika Kanumilli[/caption]

Losing vision in one of her eyes was an incredibly challenging and distressing period for Geethika and her family.  A few months of medications later, she was ready to take her entrance exam. “Unfortunately, it was too late, and the registration had already closed until the following year. I had no choice but to wait. This tested my patience to the extreme, and it felt as if some greater force was at work.”

A time of uncertainty 

Geethika ended up taking a one-year break, hoping the illness would ease.  Nevertheless, her determination to become a fashion designer remained unshaken. The following year, she took the entrance test and got admission into the top Fashion Design college in Hyderabad. “Finally, nothing stood in the way of my dream. I was fully charged and motivated to make the most of this opportunity,” she says.

However, during her second year of college, the same health issue resurfaced and started to affect her working eye, particularly during stitching sessions. “Initially, I managed with the support of my classmates, but eventually, I realized that continuing like that was not feasible. It was at this moment that I recognised the need to let go of my dream of becoming a Fashion Designer permanently,” says Geethika, who felt helpless, and quitting college in the middle of her second year was a significant blow.

“People around me made fun of my decision, and I felt embarrassed for not having a degree. I endured insults and criticism, but I chose not to disclose my health issues to most of my relatives and friends. I didn't want to use it as an excuse.” It was an intense period of uncertainty, and Geethika spent an entire year feeling lost and exhausted from the cycle of quitting and resting.

The decision that changed her life

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Geethika Kanumilli (@kanumilli)

However, one fine morning in 2015, she took a decision, regardless of the outcome. She decided to start my own fashion label as a designer. “I was only 20 then, without any professional work experience or a degree. Many people, including my own family, were against the idea of pursuing something different,” recalls Geethika.

Despite the challenges, she gathered the resources to start a small-scale business, targeting customers within a three-kilometer radius. “I had no prior knowledge or experience in running a business, but I was determined to learn as I went along.”

The initial days of running a business were incredibly challenging. “There were times when my vision would blur, and I would fear that each hard day of work would be my last day of sight. But whenever the choice to quit or continue arose, I was clear from the beginning that I was working for glory, not just for money,” she says.

After three years of consistent hard work, Geethika’s brand's customer base expanded to 12 countries and 45 cities through online sales. “This success brought appreciation from friends and family, who were unaware of the true reason why I had dropped out of college,” she says.

The creative process

When she begins to design a dress for a client, she approaches it with an intense thought: "This person must look their best wherever they go." Although it may sound simple, the intensity with which I think this thought is abnormally high. This mindset drives me to create the most unique color combinations possible,” she says of her work.

For Geethika, her clients are not just customers; they are the medium through which she expresses herself. “Their satisfaction and joy in wearing my designs fuel my passion and remind me that my journey as a fashion designer is far from over.”

Geethika believes her life taught her an important lesson. “When you achieve success, the flaws that others once saw in you become examples for them to follow. The secret is to remember this and strive to reach that point,” she feels.

Telling her story

While many of her friends and relatives were unaware why she had to drop out of college, Geethika revealed it through TEDx. “I have always desired to connect with individuals who may have experienced similar situations, believing that their pain is their enemy. However, looking back, I now understand that pain can be a friend. In my case, without the pain, I would not have been driven to achieve what I have today,” says the fashion designer.

  • Follow Geethika on Instagram and her website.

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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