(June 26, 2024) It’s a juxtaposition of opposites – modern and traditional, tailored and draped, masculine and feminine, earthy neutrals and vibrant palettes – that makes Bibhu Mohapatra’s designs stand out. His impeccable and intricate craft which is a beautiful blend of Indian designs and modernity has made him a global name in the international fashion circle.
His love for his roots and the textiles of Odisha have helped him carve a niche for himself in a crowd of international designers. His designs are an eclectic mix of contemporary and tradition that have caught the fancy of the likes of Michelle Obama, Gwyneth Paltrow and Jennifer Lopez, making the New York-based Indian designer a torchbearer of Indian fashion.
It began with him crafting dresses for his sister, and years later, this Global Indian is making India proud on the international circuit.
Inspired by a needle and thread
Born in a humble family of four in Rourkela, Odisha, Bibhu had a typical small-town upbringing. Most of his childhood went into climbing trees and playing gilli-danda with his friends. With no access to television in his early days, it was his mom’s love for sewing that caught his fancy. At 12, his love affair with the needle and thread began in earnest when he spent hours cutting and sewing up old saris and tablecloths to make dresses for his sister. “She never discouraged me, but would kindly ask, ‘Is it okay if I wear these at home?’ When I finally made a proper dress for her, she wore it to some function and got a lot of compliments. That kind of solidified something within me, it made me believe that I could perhaps, do this,” he said in an interview.
Though Bibhu was good at his craft, he was looked down up in his hometown for picking up sewing as a boy. But his progressive parents let him follow his heart. After completing his studies at the Municipal College in Rourkela, he set his sights on fashion. Unfortunately, in the early 90s, India had no fashion design schools besides NIFT Delhi, thwarting his dream. Meanwhile, his brother, who was studying graphic design in the US, encouraged Bibhu to apply for a Master’s program at Utah State University. After securing a partial scholarship, he moved to the US in 1996.
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The American dream
It was here that one of his professors chanced upon his sketchbook and was so impressed by his work that she requested friends in the art department to let Bibhu attend live drawing classes. This enhanced his portfolio, and by the end of his Masters in Economics, he was certain that fashion designing was his calling. His father’s advice ultimately sealed the deal for him. “He told me to close my eyes and picture myself 10 years down the line and see if I was happy with whatever I was doing at that time. That sealed the decision for me,” he said.
He moved to the Big Apple and enrolled himself at Fashion Institute of Technology. But the expensive city was a different ball game for this aspiring designer – he had to act fast to get some work before running broke. Armed with a few printed copies of his resume, he walked to 7th Avenue and dropped them at top design houses like Tommy Hilfiger and DKNY. Luck was on his side as received an internship call from the house of Halston – a leading fashion house that boasts of clients like Jackie Kennedy. Mohapatra dived deep into his work and learnt every trick of the trade from making embroidery layouts to going to fittings. The exposure helped him pick a full-time job with J Mendel where he worked as the Design Director for a decade. During the tenure, he expanded his team to 20 people and established connections with some of the most prominent women in America.
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Beginning of a brand – Bibhu Mohapatra
In 2009, Bibhu decided to branch out and start his eponymous label. But before the big move, he took a few months off to travel to Europe, seeking inspiration which came in the form of British-Irish artist and producer Daphne Guinness. She became the muse for his first-ever individual collection. Under the Bibhu Mohapatra label, the designer crafted some of the most beautiful couture gowns and cocktail dresses for high-profile clients across Europe, US and India.
For many years, Bibhu kept drawing inspiration from women with incredible personalities for his creations. “They don’t have to be fashionistas, or anyone famous. They can be flawed, everyone is flawed. But their journey, what they stand for as people, their work – that’s what is important to me,” he added.
Mohapatra’s designs have found their way to the big stores like Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Lane Crawford. It’s a perfect blend of craft and modernity that has made Mohapatra a favourite with Hollywood and Bollywood stars. His client boasts of creme de la creme like Gwyneth Paltrow, Glenn Close, Jennifer Lopez, Rita Ora, Priyanka Chopra, Sonam Kapoor and Lupita Nyong’o.
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But it was Michelle Obama’s endorsement that catapulted Mohapatra’s designs to the spotlight. It began in 2013 when Obama graced The Tonight Show with Jay Leno in a yellow printed dress from Mohapatra’s resort collection, sparking a surge in popularity for the designer who has mastered the fine balance between sophistication and femme fatale. The clean lines, impeccable construction and a celebration of femininity is what makes his designs stand out. So when Michelle Obama exited Delta One on her maiden visit to India in a blue floral crepe dress by Mohapatra, no one could stop talking about the dress and in an instant this designer from Rourkela became a hit across the globe.
Coming back to roots
Bibhu has become a global name in the fashion circles, thanks to the heavy influence of Odisha’s craft during the formative years of his life. “As a child, I was enamoured of colours. My mother’s jewellery, her saris, the pipli and ikat work from the region — all this stayed with me. I feel that my heritage gives me that edge in making my clothes more modern,” he added. Over the years, he has used some of the textile traditions of his home state, particularly ikat, to create interesting juxtapositions and introduce the rich textiles of Odisha to the audience in the West. Back home, he collaborates with local weavers for various projects. One such was Make In Odisha Conclave in which he teamed up with state government to create a special collection as part of the Handloom Revival Project.
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“I challenged the artisans to create new shapes, new prints and then mix them with modern elements and interesting colour combinations. We blended textiles such as silk and cotton. The idea was to see how creative economies can help foster pride in our heritage and bring economic prosperity to the artisans,” he said. The 52-year-old also plans to launch a new project where the narrative of the artisans will reach the customers. “They need to know the people who weave these beautiful textiles. I plan to offer two designs to each weaver household and their job is to work with them in interesting ways. On a sari’s pallu or the corner of the pieces of home furnishing, they will ikat weave their names so that they do not remain nameless, faceless artisans,” he added.
Mohapatra, who started his journey by sewing clothes for his sister to starting his own brand to styling Michelle Obama, has come a long way in this sartorial journey. He is one of those rare Indian designers who has put Indian designs and textiles on the global stage with every new collection.
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