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Global IndianstoryMeet the husband-wife duo celebrating plant-forward, borderless cuisine at Moglu
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Meet the husband-wife duo celebrating plant-forward, borderless cuisine at Moglu

Written by: Bindu Gopal Rao

(February 17, 2024) What does it take to give up a thriving technology business in Saudi Arabia to come to Bengaluru to open a vegetarian restaurant? That’s exactly what husband and wife duo, Ankita Shree, Managing Director, and Dr. Kiran Narayanan, Executive Chef, did. They returned to Bengaluru to start Moglu, a restaurant that celebrates vegetarian gastronomy. Their vision is to bring fresh, high-quality ingredients to create a borderless, plant-forward dining experience that seamlessly combines regional and international flavours, influences and techniques.

Ankita was a high-achieving student, and studied political science at Lady Shri Ram College in Delhi. She topped her class, then did a master’s in Jawaharlal Nehru University, and even spent a summer volunteering with the renowned Belgian-born Indian welfare economist and social scientist, Dr Jean Dreze. During her time volunteering with Dr Dreze, she was focussed on the implementation of the National Rural Employment Guarantee Act in the tribal areas of Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh. “Witnessing the gaps in the deployment of the scheme was frustrating, and instead of merely petitioning bureaucrats, I felt compelled to become one myself,” Ankita says, in an interview with Global Indian.

Ankita Sree and Kiran Narayan, co-founders of Moglu

So, after completing her master’s degree, she spent a year preparing for the UPSC civil services exam. She cleared it on her first attempt and began her career in the Indian Revenue Service, as the Assistant Commissioner of Income Tax. She spent over three years in the IRS, and realised the bureaucratic environment just wasn’t the right fit for her. “Not one to settle, I made the tough decision to leave my job, despite strong objections from my family. I then moved to Saudi Arabia, where I served as the CFO and co-founded a deep tech company with Kiran in 2019,” she recollects.

From architecture to tech

On the other hand, Kiran’s early life was a rich tapestry of experiencing different cultures, cuisines, and friendships. As his father worked for SAIL, the family moved to a new city every 2-2.5 years. It was challenging to have to change schools so often and make new friends each time, but this “transient lifestyle,” says Kiran, did nurture his passion for cooking, eve though he didn’t know it at the time. “My mother’s culinary skills and her curiosity for various regional cuisines deeply influenced me. I began experimenting with food at a young age, often observing the outcome of cooking vegetables over the coal stove in Asansol and Burnpur, West Bengal.” Their gardener, ‘Prasad dada’ became Kiran’s first mentor, and fostered his love for cooking.

However, after school, he followed through on his passion for architecture, and joined CEPT in Ahmedabad, which is India’s premier architecture school. However, familial circumstances prompted a shift to a Mechanical Engineering course at SRM, Chennai, then a a master’s degree in Texas, where he lived and worked for six years. Later, he followed a respected professor to King Abdullah University of Science and Technology (KAUST), Saudi Arabia, and completed his PhD under Dr. Ravi Samtaney’s mentorship.

Moglu

Although they had such diverse backgrounds, the couple’s paths crossed in 2010 through a common friend. After his time in Texas and before moving to Saudi Arabia, Kiran spent six months in Pune doing a project for DRDO on carbon nanotubes as a scientist. Ankita was visiting a friend on the same campus, which was near Khadakwasla called DIAT (Defence Institute of Advanced Technology). “We met at a party and became and stayed friends for seven years before our relationship blossomed into a romantic one,” smiles Ankita.

Shifting Gears

In 2019, Ankita decided to leave her position at the IRS and embark on a new journey alongside Kiran. The couple ventured into the realm of entrepreneurship, founding their first venture together, a deep tech startup. Kiran had decided to follow his mentor, Dr Ravi Samtaney, to King Abdullah University of Science and Technology in Saudi Arabia, where he did his PhD in Computational Physics under his guidance. “The diverse global community within the university township and the support extended to entrepreneurs made it an attractive prospect for us,” says Ankita.

At KAUST, they found a supportive ecosystem and a diverse, collaborative community, the ideal setting for their own startup ambitions and Kiran was keen to establish their tech company there. And when Ankita visited Kiran at KAUST in 2019, she was inspired by what she saw. “The vibrant community and the resources available convinced me to join him as a co-founder and assume the role of CFO. It felt like the perfect opportunity to pursue our entrepreneurial dreams together,” she says.

The Beirut sharing platter at Moglu

The Return

However, as they ran their first venture Saudi Arabia, Ankita had discovered her calling for Yoga, and applied for a Hatha Yoga teacher training programme. In 2022, the couple returned to India and Ankita moved to Coimbatore for a six-month residential training programme at the Isha School of Hatha Yoga. Almost parallelly, Kiran moved to New York and began his professional training as a chef at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) in Manhattan. After finishing her training in December 2022, Ankita joined Kiran in NYC for a few months. “Together, we did the NYC winters the right way by indulging in a myriad of food crawls across the Big Apple,” says Kiran. The unwavering confidence, support, and belief they had in each other’s company, they decided to make their next move.

The Restaurant Business

With a vision to revolutionise the vegetarian restaurant landscape by infusing it with quality, variety, and innovation, the couple started working on their dream project which was to start a vegetarian restaurant. “We believe that India’s diverse range of vegetables, including seasonal produce, deserves to be celebrated and showcased in inventive ways, blending culinary traditions from around the world with our own regional and micro-cuisines – some culinary magic, if you will,” aver the duo.

At the heart of Moglu’s culinary philosophy are two simple things, fresh, high-quality ingredients and the use of culinary influences, flavours, and techniques cutting across cuisines, both international as well as regional and micro cuisines, to present them in a manner that’s delightful, innovative, and above all, delicious. Kiran says, “Our first goal is to reignite people’s love and passion for vegetarian cuisine through a cuisine-agnostic approach that transcends borders and focuses on the inherent qualities of each ingredient. Everything at Moglu, from sauces to ferments, and zero-proof beverages from indigenous ingredients is crafted from scratch, in-house. We combine both scientific knowledge and culinary expertise to bring out the best in indigenous ingredients.” Ankita adds, “we want to present an alternative business model of a restaurant that makes no compromises on quality and purity in the interest of scale. We strongly believe that since food is a consumable that directly impacts one’s wellbeing, scaling food service for hyper growth compromises quality.”

Tempeh Arancini with Polenta & Romesco

Collaborations with the Isha Foundation

To support farmers, they collaborate with Farmer Producer Organizations (FPOs), particularly those under the purview of Isha Foundation in collaboration with NABARD. “We plan to grow organically and sustainably, without being overly worried about numbers. We want to generate enough revenue to provide everyone on our team with at least two yearly raises. We are focusing on building a strong team that shares our vision and mission. With their collaboration, we aspire to build an institution that can endure beyond our lifetimes and contribute positively to the world,” conclude the couple.

Learn more about Moglu on their website.

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  • Isha Foundation
  • Moglu
  • Moglu Bengaluru
  • plant forward cuisine
  • vegetarian gourmet cuisine in Bengaluru

Published on 17, Mar 2024

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Nav Bhatia: Sikh Canadian is the first-ever fan to be inducted in NBA Hall of Fame

(March 15, 2024) "I have been to every home game since 1995," writes Sikh Canadian Nav Bhatia in his memoir - The Heart of a Superfan - a book that chronicles his journey from India to Canada and his love affair with the Toronto Raptors. When Nav moved to Canada in the 80s, not in his wildest dreams he had imagined writing a book or being a superfan of NBA franchise Toronto Raptors. But destiny had already rolled the dice, and the Indian-origin found his name etched next to legends such as Kobe Bryant, Chris Webber, and others at the NBA Hall of Fame, thus becoming the first-ever fan to be inducted into the Naismith Basketball Hall of Fame. Also in the pipeline is a biopic, Superfan, for which Kal Penn has been signed on to play the protagonist.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Nav Bhatia Superfan (@navbhatiasuperfan) For the last 24 years, Canada has been witness to his love and support for the Toronto Raptors. Seeing a Sikh with a turban and beard break cultural barriers with his love for basketball was a spectacle for Canadians. "I was the first NBA fan to

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.instagram.com/p/C3x-6JjxBPC/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14">

 

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For the last 24 years, Canada has been witness to his love and support for the Toronto Raptors. Seeing a Sikh with a turban and beard break cultural barriers with his love for basketball was a spectacle for Canadians. "I was the first NBA fan to be recognised with a championship ring. The team gifted one to me in 2019, when they won the title. I felt like a part of the team - it's one of my favourite possessions," he said in an interview. In a country that boasts of Raptors fans, what made Nav stand out was his 24 years of dedication and loyalty. This made Penguin Random House approach the superfan for a memoir, who co-authored the book with Tamara Baluja. His memoir, which was released recently, encourages diversity, equality, and acceptance for a man who made Toronto his home in the 80s.

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Finding his feet in Canada

The 1984 anti-Sikh riots in India forced Nav to flee to Toronto in search of a safe haven for his family. But coming to Canada at 33, he had a hard time landing a job in a foreign land despite being a mechanical engineer, owing to his looks. "In the initial years, I cleaned the washrooms, worked as a janitor and landscaper to manage expenses and take care of my family," he said in an interview.

[caption id="attachment_50033" align="aligncenter" width="637"]Nav Bhatia | Global Indian Nav Bhatia[/caption]

However, after initial hiccups, he found work as a salesman at a Hyundai dealership in Rexdale but soon became the target of racial discrimination. "When I became a car salesman in the early ’90s, I was the only Sikh in the showroom. I knew that, if I wanted to survive in that environment, I had to be the best. So, I sold 147 cars in three months. Eventually, I became a general manager. I'm still in that business today—I own five dealerships," the Global Indian added.

A ticket that changed his life

Tired of hustling day in and out, he decided to take his mind off work and bought two tickets to the first game of Toronto Raptors (NBA's 28th franchise) in 1995. It turned out to be a life-changing moment as he instantly fell in love with the game. "I started buying tickets to all their home games and cheered hard, just like I would for cricket matches back in India." Even the Toronto Raptors couldn't ignore their unlikely admirer and soon presented him with a 'Superfan' jersey. "In 1998, Isiah Thomas, the executive vice-president of the Raptors gave me the jersey and told me that, from now on, I would represent the Raptors as their number one Superfan. Thirty years later, the only game I ever missed was when I had Covid in 2021."

After gaining recognition, he began brushing shoulders with NBA biggies such as Tracy McGrady, RJ Barrett, and Chris Boucher. For the last 29 years, Bhatia has been an ever-present figure in attendance for the Toronto Raptors. His devotion to the team is so intense that he once delayed kidney surgery until after the season, fearing he might miss a single match. In 2018, the Toronto Raptors clinched their inaugural NBA title, a historic moment. Nav, known as the team's ultimate superfan, was honoured with an official championship ring, typically reserved solely for team members, marking the first time a superfan received such recognition for their unwavering loyalty.

 

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A post shared by Nav Bhatia Superfan (@navbhatiasuperfan)

Giving Back

When he's not cheering on the Raptors from the crowd, he's tirelessly advocating for his community across Canada. His journey began in 1999 when mistaken for a cab driver while getting his phone repaired, he resolved to change misconceptions about Sikhs in mainstream society. His efforts materialised when he reached out to the Raptors, requesting 3,000 tickets to celebrate Sikh New Year courtside. Generously, he gifted these tickets to children across communities, and soon this took the form of a tradition.

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In 2018, he took his commitment a notch higher by establishing the Nav Bhatia Superfan Foundation, dedicated to making basketball accessible to children by constructing courts and providing equipment. Every Baisakhi, he takes out around 5,000 children of all ages and backgrounds to attend a Raptors game, promoting inclusivity and unity.

Nav Bhatia | Global Indian

His philanthropic efforts aren't confined to Canada; they stretch across oceans to India. Through his foundation, he partnered with World Vision to launch the Daughters of India campaign, addressing the issue of inadequate sanitation facilities for girls. In 2017, their joint efforts raised $300,000, resulting in the construction of 135 washrooms across 35 schools in Punjab's Faridkot district.

Now, through The Heart of a Superfan, Bhatia hopes to encourage diversity, equality, and acceptance. Such has been the influence that Kal Penn has signed onto produce and star in his biopic Superfan, and Nav Bhatia is "excited for the film." Nav Bhatia's life story is nothing short of a motivation, through which he wants to inspire people. "If an old man with a turban can come to a new country and succeed, anyone can."

  • Follow Nav Bhatia on Instagram
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Tradition, innovation, and exuberance: Exploring Chef Ranveer Brar’s kitchen

(June 13, 2023) It was a hot summer afternoon, and realising that his mother was feeling under the weather, a young Ranveer Brar decided to take over the kitchen to make rajma-chawal for the family. While he did it out of affection for his mother, this incident turned his whole life around. "I had no recipe but had observed when mother was cooking, the chef said in an interview, adding, "It turned out good enough for my father to secretly tell mom that he loved it! That sort of clinched the deal for me. I have been inspired by many people in my life and continue to be. Right from my biji, Munir Ustad, the street food vendors of Lucknow, and chef Charlie Trotter, to name a few." Standing as one of India's most renowned culinary artists, Chef Ranveer Brar's expertise lies in infusing traditional cuisines with a contemporary flair, showcasing his ingenuity and finesse. Having hosted and judged numerous popular cookery shows on Indian television, this Global Indian approaches food with a childlike exuberance that mirrors his passion for cooking. At the young age of 25, Brar achieved a remarkable feat by becoming the youngest executive chef to work

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and judged numerous popular cookery shows on Indian television, this Global Indian approaches food with a childlike exuberance that mirrors his passion for cooking. At the young age of 25, Brar achieved a remarkable feat by becoming the youngest executive chef to work with a five-star hotel in India and went on to own several high-end restaurants in USA and Canada. With his celebrity status and a conglomerate of restaurants and television shows bearing his name, Chef Ranveer Brar has elevated India's culinary reputation on the global stage.

Inspired by the streets

Growing up in Lucknow, Chef Brar was always fascinated by the city's street food - especially kababs. But, the chef's first introduction to cooking was at a Gurudwara. Speaking about his growing-up years, the chef said, "For me, food has always represented an institution where learning never ceases. As a child, I was fascinated by the ‘buzz’ that happened in the communal kitchen, that is, the langar. The sheer volume of food being cooked by at least 50-60 people in that kitchen, turned out super delicious (without being tasted, since it was bhog) every single time made it extra special. It was also my earliest experience of cooking food in large quantities. Cooking at the langar instilled in me the values of cooking selflessly and with emotion and definitely, the importance of a clean kitchen and hygiene in general."

Chef | Ranveer Brar | Global Indian

He added, "But, my actual affinity towards cooking developed much later when I got exposed to Lucknow as a city. When I was older and started exploring the streets of Lucknow, the lanes, its food, and folklore started unfolding before me." This exploration led Chef Brar to start cooking at home, and eventually explore a career in the culinary industry. And quite interestingly, while others might have chosen to go to a culinary institution after finishing school, Chef Brar chose to travel a path less travelled. "Exploring Lucknow opened up a completely new world of possibilities of what one could do with food. I had my first culinary tutelage under Munir Ustad, a skilled kebab vendor in Lucknow," he shared.

Culinary innovator

After working with Munir Ustad for about six months, Chef Brar enrolled at the Institute of Hotel Management (IHM), Lucknow, and eventually joined the Taj Group of Hotels, starting with one of their most prestigious properties, Fort Aguada Beach Resort in Goa. What is surprising is that during his first assignment itself, the chef was able to launch two restaurants in the hotel - Morisco and il Camino. In 2003, he shifted to New Delhi's Radisson Blu Hotel, becoming the youngest executive chef of his time in the country at the age of 25.

Chef | Ranveer Brar | Global Indian

"My cooking philosophy is to pour into dishes what I experience during my travels," shared the chef during an interaction, "Also, I like to want my cuisines to spark off interesting and insightful conversations. The objective is to touch a chord with people in a manner that reminds them of the same/ similar dish they might have experienced elsewhere. I am also driven by the principles of eating seasonally and locally. When we consume what’s natural to our DNA, sustainability automatically kicks in."

The chef moved to Boston, Massachusetts, where he established "Banq," a high-end Franco-Asian restaurant that garnered acclaim and multiple accolades. Notably, "Banq" was honoured with the prestigious title of Best New Restaurant in the World by renowned magazine Wallpaper. Building on this success, he assumed the role of Corporate Chef at the esteemed One World Hospitality Group, a longstanding restaurant consortium based in Boston. Sharing a special experience, the chef had once shared, "Cooking at “chefs in shorts”, Boston. It is a ticketed open-air event at the Wharf where more than 50 of the top chefs from Boston get together to cook their signature barbeque dishes. It’s a memorable experience with more than 3,000 people attending this event that takes place for nearly four hours."

Chef | Ranveer Brar | Global Indian

It was during this time that the chef made his signature dish - Dorra kebab. "It is a kebab cooked on a smoked silken thread. It is as tender as the Kakori - if not more. I learnt and perfected it over the years, watching the masters, i.e., the street kebab vendors of Lucknow. The flavours that go into it are quite exotic, especially the sandalwood, and the best part, one that requires deftness and patience is pulling off the silk thread or Dora in a single stroke while leaving the Kebab intact," he shared.

Infusing flavours

The chef returned to India in 2015 and desgined the menu for various high-end restaurants, including MTV India, Haute Chef, English Vinglish, and TAG Gourmart Kitchen. Around the same time, Chef Brar made his first appearance on Indian television, with MasterChef, and subsequently several other shows including Ranveer On The Road, The Great Indian Rasoi, Food Tripping, and Himalayas the Offbeat Adventure.

[caption id="attachment_39932" align="aligncenter" width="635"]Chef | Ranveer Brar | Global Indian Chef Ranveer Brar with actor Pratik Gandhi, during the shoot of Modern Love Mumbai[/caption]

Interestingly, the chef has also designed menus for several luxury cruiseliners, such as Royal Caribbean International's Voyager of the Seas. Speaking about that experience, he said, "The galley runs like a well-oiled machine. Everyone knows what they are doing, it's amazing how it works like clockwork. There's no single extra spoke in the wheel. In a cruise/ship, timing is key. There are only 800 seats and 2,400 people to be fed. If you don't serve food in time, it won't be cleared up in time and the next meal won’t be served on time, essentially everything gets backlogged and that’s a bad thing to happen."

But the kitchen is not the only place where this chef excels. Chef Brar was recently seen in the six-episode anthology - Modern Love Mumbai - along with Pratik Gandhi and veteran actress Tanuja, which was directed by Hansal Mehta. "I was initially in two minds about acting. But to be honest, it has helped me discover a new aspect of myself, push my limits and know myself better! For instance, in BAAI, I played a chef, which was like second nature to me, with the added layer of someone who had whole-heartedly embraced their identity, and orientation and had only love to give. It was an extremely heart-warming experience that warmed up my own heart a little more," he said.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8tKvDNxTTU

Looking forward, the chef wishes to inspire the next generation of culinary experts. "I would like to tell them to stick to their roots and basics. Also, identify their food philosophy, believe in it, and look for ways to manifest that in their cuisines," the chef advised.

  • Follow Chef Ranveer Brar on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and his website

Reading Time: 6 mins

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Meet Aayushi Karnik, the Indian guitarist who riffed her way into The Juilliard School

A 28-year old self-taught Jazz-Blues Guitarist/Singer-Songwriter, Aayushi Karnik started playing guitar at the age of 12. She studied jazz guitar at New York’s feted The Julliard School. She found her calling after in the Blues while during a break from Architecture Studies. Now a seasoned member of New York’s thriving jazz circuit, Aayushi has performed alongside Indian guitar greats such as Rudy Wallang and Sanjay Divecha and has worked with musicians like Geoffrey Keezer, Christian McBride and Ron Blake and released albums like The Summer Children, and blues/rock record Troublemaker. (June 15, 2023) As a kid, Aayushi had her headphones on all the time, escaping into a musical world of her own. To her, relaxation meant playing music, writing songs and learning things about music through internet. Aayushi would do this as a hobby but while studying architecture, she gravitated even more strongly towards music. "It was during my one-year break that I became inclined towards music and started to practice guitar more aggressively as compared to when I was in Architecture school," she tells Global Indian, adding, "I was supposed to go for my undergraduate studies and I almost went in that direction after having topped the entrance exam

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ion after having topped the entrance exam for the universities but something pulled me against doing that."

Growing up in Surat, Gujarat, in a family of architects, Aayushi intended to follow in her father’s footsteps, and music was not remotely part of the plan. "I wanted to be an architect just like my father and be a really good one for that matter. My schooling was at a Convent in Surat all the way through 10th grade and then I went to an Architecture prep school as I was very clear what I wanted to do, at least then,” she says.

The musical expedition

Things started to change after she applied for a guitar competition in Nagaland. "That led to me making friends in music outside of my hometown." She began to see herself as a musician, spending hours practicing music. Her only goal was to write music and get better each day, she says. “I had created a space of escape, even when I was in high school. Forming my first band was a big moment.”

Intrigued by her own capabilities, Aayushi Karnik attempted to make the sounds that come out of her iPod and kept chasing it. "Song writing was something that I did for fun. Just like sketching, gardening, foraging, riding my scooter and other stuff that gave me pleasure. Again that low pressure space where people aren’t fighting for affirmation was something that shaped the beginnings of my musical education."

 

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Making it to Juilliard

"After studying at home for a while and being guided by a fellow musician, Floyd Fernandes, I decided to apply to colleges in the US which I thought would challenge me.” On this list was on The Julliard School, one of the top schools in the world for music, and an ambitious choice for an untrained musician.

She got a call back from Juilliard and even as she went through her final audition round, Aayushi Karnik still didn’t allow herself to get her hopes up, as being able to read and write music was one of the main requirements for admission. "I didn't grow up with an infrastructure of a well-organised music program throughout my entire schooling. But from what I've heard, it was the director of Juilliard Jazz, Wynton Marsalis, who insisted that I be admitted. I was able to pursue my education because of a full scholarship."

Knowing the craft of different genres and styles, she began her journey as a singer-songwriter. “First a singer-songwriter, then a blues musician and then a few years before I went to Juilliard, I was studying jazz with Floyd Fernandes. Currently, I am working on an album with my Folk Band, Summer Children and also writing for my Indie/Rock group. I also write in the context of Modern Jazz but that project is more of a work in progress for me at the moment,” Aayushi says.

Trying to be heard

Aayushi Karnik now calls New York City her home, and is now a well-known face in the city’s thriving jazz circuit. “New York City has been very inclusive and welcomes folks from all over when it comes to the arts,” the musician remarks.

Even so, while writing music and playing sessions for other musicians have helped her build a reputation, being heard on a larger scale has been a challenge. Aayushi admits that she didn’t have the option of choosing the ‘conventional’ route with playing music in the Jazz scene in New York.

[caption id="attachment_40031" align="aligncenter" width="477"]Aayushi Karnik Aayushi Karnik, the Indian blues guitarist taking NYC by storm.[/caption]

"Even if I did, I would have bored myself eventually. The friction I am experiencing is just the price one has to pay when they are trying to experiment with things that are not usually done,” says Aayushi. “ I manage to be fine with it as I am lucky enough to find great musicians that are invested in my projects,” she adds.

Experiences onstage

At the top of Aayushi’s list of most memorable musical moments is playing with Christian McBride's band in the summer of 2022. Another is playing with Geoffrey Keezer's band during his album release at Dizzy’s Club in New York City.” Performing with her folk quartet, she says, is a treat always. Aayushi is dedicating her time to writing music with her folk band, and hopes to take the ensemble on tour within the next year.

As she ponders her future, the maverick musician calls herself “tri-polar,” with regard to the music she likes to play. “If I keep my folk band, an Indie Rock/Blues trio and a Modern Jazz Band going, I’d say I am doing my job efficiently,” she says.

"It doesn’t matter where you’re from as long as you sound good,” says Aayushi, adding, “I can speak for the East Coast as I have been here for the last five years. It doesn't matter where you are from as long as you sound good,” she says, adding, "Folks do try to be inclusive but my philosophy has been that music is for listening and not seeing so at the end of the day I have had the luxury to live up to my philosophy and I am grateful for that."

 

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Different lands and lives

The moment she stepped into NYC for her auditions, she knew this was home. "Sure there are cultural nuances to every place you go to as to what people have for breakfast to how they talk but I think I was young and adapted to all of it in no time,” she explains.

If cultural adaptation wasn’t a challenge, finding her way to the right musical circles was tough. She managed to navigate her way though, and has found her footing as a composer.

Take aways

  • Learn the tradition but don’t let it drive you.
  • Challenge the preconceived ways of doing things even if it scares or isolates you.

 

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Vinod Kalathil and Margaret Pak: Crafting Onam Sadya magic in Chicago

(Aug 29, 2023) “The feast will be served traditional style on fresh banana leaves and everything should be eaten by hand - no utensils!” say Vinod Kalathil and Chef Margaret, as they share their much-awaited Onam Sadya schedule. The husband-wife duo co-own Thattu, a restaurant that serves authentic Kerala food in Chicago – one of the largest cities in the US. “We will also be featuring some traditional flower carpets - pookkalam - and you can participate in creating it too. The Thattu team will be available to answer all your questions about Onam and Sadya,” they add.  The couple had been busy making Thattu’s Onam Sadya (feast) an unforgettable experience in Chicago, for customers who love to explore the rich food legacy of South India through Vinod and Margaret. Thattu offered a traditional Onam Sadya to its customers for three days and tickets to the event sold like hot cakes.  [caption id="attachment_44324" align="aligncenter" width="626"] Vinod and Margaret | Photo Credit: Thattu[/caption] Located in the beautiful Chicago neighbourhood of Avondale, Thattu is born of Chef Margaret Pak’s love for the southwest Indian coastal cuisine of Kerala – the native place of her husband, Vinod.  Thattu’s menu brings out the traditions of

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o its customers for three days and tickets to the event sold like hot cakes. 

[caption id="attachment_44324" align="aligncenter" width="626"]Indian cuisine | Onam | Global Indian Vinod and Margaret | Photo Credit: Thattu[/caption]

Located in the beautiful Chicago neighbourhood of Avondale, Thattu is born of Chef Margaret Pak’s love for the southwest Indian coastal cuisine of Kerala – the native place of her husband, Vinod. 

Thattu’s menu brings out the traditions of Kerala along with some interesting twists from its culinary team. Rich with aromatic spices, coconut and curry leaves, it is a celebration of the bounty of the land and the sea that Kerala is so popular for. 

From corporate world to food entrepreneurship 

Margaret and Vinod had backgrounds in the corporate sector prior to launching Thattu. Margaret worked as a data analyst while Vinod was a computer science engineer and CPA. In a shift from her data analyst role, Margaret ventured into food sales and later honed her culinary talents by working in the kitchen of the street food joint, Kimski, in Bridgeport. Her career path took another turn when her talent for cooking authentic Kerala cuisine, influenced by Vinod and his mother's recipes, caught the attention of her colleagues at Kimski. This is when she decided to foray into the world of food business on her own. 

After gaining recognition through some successful pop-up events, Margaret and Vinod secured a contract with Politan Row, a hospitality operator in the food hall industry. This milestone marked a pivotal moment, leading Vinod to leave his corporate job and join Margaret on their culinary journey full-time. Soon, their Kerala street food stall, which they named Thattu, became a favourite for the Politan Row’s visitors. 

[caption id="attachment_44325" align="aligncenter" width="603"]Indian cuisine | Onam | Global Indian Vinod and Margaret | Photo Credit: Thattu[/caption]

In January 2022, Thattu found a permanent home at Avondale. “We did not have a professional culinary background,” say the food entrepreneurs, who went by their instincts and ended up being successful in their endeavour. 

Serving proper Sadya in Chicago 

Sadya, a traditional feast or meal is an integral part of the Kerala cuisine. It is usually served during festivals, celebrations, and special occasions, and is known for its elaborate spread of various vegetarian dishes served on a banana leaf. 

The highlight of a Sadya is the variety of dishes that are served, typically including rice served with a variety of curries, side dishes, pickles, and desserts. “A proper Kerala meal is difficult to find in the US and a proper Sadya is even more difficult to find here,” says Vinod.  

Even those who are preparing it at home, struggle to meet all the requirements like finding banana leaf to serve. “Most of the times they use paper banana leaf for the purpose.” However, the duo has found a place that flies in the banana leaves from India. 

[caption id="attachment_44327" align="aligncenter" width="830"]Indian cuisine | Onam | Global Indian Onam Sadya at Thattu | Photo Credit: Thattu[/caption]

Introducing Kerala cuisine to people in Chicago 

Vinod is from the city of Kozhikode in Kerala and continues to maintain deep ties to his home state’s food and culture. Both he and Margaret wanted to introduce the state’s authentic food to the people in Chicago, the place they now call home.  

“Kerala’s food is relatively lesser known in the United States,” People associate Indian food with the North Indian cuisine - naan and butter chicken being popular choices but they are not very conversant with the authentic South Indian meal, and the traditional feast like Sadya is a totally new concept.  

The couple wanted to introduce people to the diversity of India by offering them a cuisine which is new to their taste buds. This novelty is Thattu’s USP. 

The restaurant’s menu highlights the essence of Kerala's traditions, complemented by some innovative ideas added to the cuisine. “But whatever is served, the root of it is ingrained in the Kerala cuisine,” Vinod shares. 

[caption id="attachment_44331" align="aligncenter" width="776"]Indian cuisine | Onam | Global Indian The Thattu Team | Photo Credit: Thattu[/caption]

Showing guests, the right way 

During their Sadya events, Vinod and Margaret demonstrate how to eat every dish with hand to their western customers. 

Every diner receives an illustrated card that has an explanation of each dish, detailing the optional six accompaniments that enhance flavour and texture, and how to eat them. The entrepreneurs have also published a 24-page cooking zine outlining the recipes for a traditional Sadya with vibrant pictures. Interested people can purchase it to learn how to make over a dozen of their favourite Sadya dishes. 

With their USP of novelty and authenticity, Vinod and Margaret have captured the hearts of the people in Chicago through Thattu’s delightful offerings. 

[caption id="attachment_44332" align="aligncenter" width="573"]Indian cuisine | Onam | Global Indian Vinod and Margaret[/caption]

 

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Chef Avin Thaliath: Transforming India’s baking landscape, one pastry at a time

(November 17, 2024) Dr. Avin Thaliath is redefining India's baking landscape with a blend of science, culture, and artistry, transforming baking from a foreign concept to an accessible art. His journey began in the aromatic kitchens of Kochi, but it was his studies in pastry-making in France that became a turning point. Trained in traditional French techniques, Avin returned to India with a bold vision: to bring world-class pastry education and innovation to the country. Co-founding the Lavonne Academy of Baking Science and Pastry Arts in Bengaluru, he set out to blend European precision with Indian flavours and conditions, inspiring a new generation of bakers. At Lavonne, Avin combines hands-on practice with deep culinary science, introducing students to techniques like autolyse and sourdough fermentation, and teaching them not just how to bake, but why each technique works. His dedication to creating an inclusive baking community and educating future chefs is paving the way for a uniquely Indian take on the art of pastry-making. [caption id="attachment_60121" align="aligncenter" width="547"] Chef Avin[/caption] His culinary journey began long before he ever donned a chef’s apron. It started in the kitchens of his childhood summers in Kochi, where he spent countless hours watching his mother

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> Chef Avin[/caption]

His culinary journey began long before he ever donned a chef’s apron. It started in the kitchens of his childhood summers in Kochi, where he spent countless hours watching his mother and grandmother cook. “I discovered early on that I had a peculiar nose for flavours,” Avin tells Global Indian. “I could pick out subtle differences in the same dish served twice. The sensitivity, along with the rich textures and tastes I experienced in their kitchens, laid the foundation for my future as a chef.”

These early encounters ignited Avin's passion for food, but it wasn’t just about nourishment—it was about memories. For him, food became synonymous with emotion, a connection which continues to influence his approach to cooking today. “Flavours have the power to evoke memories and emotions,” he says, of the principle central to his work as both a chef and educator. Having worked with two of the country's largest hotel chains, the Taj and the Orchids, he was part of the team which catered to dignitaries like Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam and President George W. Bush.

Discovering His Passion

Interestingly, Avin Thaliath didn’t set out to be a baker. While he had always enjoyed food, it wasn’t until a scholarship took him to France that he found his true calling. “I didn’t have the skills of a baker yet,” he admits, “but it was in France, during my internship, that I formally trained and fell in love with baking.”

Chef Avin | Global Indian

Working alongside a seasoned French chef who recognised his potential, the 39-year-old was handling intense shifts on his own. It was here, he baked his first baguette, an achievement he remains proud of. “I have an entire film roll of photographs of it,” the chef recalls with a smile. This experience marked the beginning of his lifelong fascination with the science of baking—a journey which has taken him across kitchens and classrooms, from Europe to India.

Avin’s approach to baking is unique, combining a deep understanding of the science behind ingredients with a respect for cultural traditions. “Baking is more than just mixing ingredients,” he explains. “It’s about understanding how those ingredients interact on a molecular level.”

His experiments with techniques like sourdough fermentation and the autolyse method have allowed him to refine not only European breads but also Indian breads. “Autolyse, where you let flour and water rest before kneading, can save up to 80 percent of the usual time required for gluten development,” he shares.

 

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A post shared by Dr. Avin Thaliath (@chef_avin)

Blending Ideas

Upon his return to India, Avin Thaliath found no place where he could practise the techniques he learned abroad. This led him to start Lavonne Academy in 2012, India's first international baking sciences and pastry arts academy, where he teaches aspiring bakers by blending his scientific knowledge with cultural context. “I want my students to understand not just the ‘how,’ but the ‘why’ behind traditional and modern techniques,” he says. This philosophy allows him to introduce his students to the complexities of baking, while also encouraging them to innovate and create new flavours reflecting their unique backgrounds.

Baking in India presents its own challenges, from the varying quality of flour to the impact of humidity and heat on the baking process. “Flours like T-55 or T-45 don’t have direct equivalents in India, so we have to adapt,” he explains. Success, he believes, comes from knowing how to ‘tame’ these ingredients. “Fifty percent of the battle is understanding your ingredients,” he says, noting how climate and local conditions play a crucial role in shaping the final product.

From Teaching to Writing

For the baker, one of the high points of his career has been the opportunity to return to Christ University, his alma mater, as a professor. “It’s rewarding to give back to the same institution where I nurtured my talents,” he says.

Now, Avin Thaliath is focused on passing the knowledge he has gained to the next generation of chefs. His new book, A Baker’s Journey, is his way of giving back to the culinary community.

The book explores the science and art of baking, explaining how ingredients like flour, yeast, and eggs interact to create flavor and structure. It emphasizes the importance of precision, blending traditional techniques with modern innovations. The book aims at making baking accessible for both hobbyists and professionals.

“I realized there was a gap in the literature,” he explains. “No one has yet attempted to combine the three crucial aspects of baking I focus on: the science, the art, and the anthropology. As an Indian chef, I felt it was important to contribute this perspective to the global culinary dialogue, as no Indian author has previously undertaken such a comprehensive exploration of baking”

Avin’s philosophy is grounded in hard work and resilience, qualities that have carried him through the toughest challenges. “There’s no substitute for hard work,” he tells his students. “It’s what will carry you through the toughest challenges. Smart work comes later, but the foundation of hard work is what matters.”

The Legacy of a Baker

The baker’s journey is far from over, but he has already achieved what many only dream of—success in his field, the ability to pass on his knowledge, and the chance to give back to the community which shaped him. For Avin Thaliath, it all comes back to his roots. “This book is inspired by my mother, Pauly Mathew, and my grandmother, Mary Paul Vithayathil. They were the ones who first showed me the magic that happens in the kitchen,” he notes.

Chef Avin

When he’s not teaching or writing, Avin enjoys experimenting with new ingredients and thinking about how he can make baking accessible to everyone. “My goal is to simplify baking for the everyday home baker,” he says, “to make it something anyone can enjoy, even if it’s their first time.”

Dr. Avin Thaliath’s story is one of innovation and following his passion. “There’s something truly special about creating food and bringing people together,” he reflects. And with his new book, he hopes to inspire others to embark on their own culinary journeys—guided by the same love for flavours and the art of baking that has shaped his life.

QUICK TAKES

Favourite dessert? Crème caramel – the most difficult dessert to make
A baker you look up to? Chef Antonio Bachour, Chef Carlos Mampel and my mother
One dish you haven’t ever cooked and why? I’ve never cooked something without involving heart and soul.
Patisseries you like eating at: A small little bakery in Turkey where I ate simit, at Café Nantes, a bakery where I discovered the best bagels and Lavonne Café.

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About Global Indian

Global Indian – a Hero’s Journey is an online publication which showcases the journeys of Indians who went abroad and have had an impact on India. 

These journeys are meant to inspire and motivate the youth to aspire to go beyond where they were born in a spirit of adventure and discovery and return home with news ideas, capital or network that has an impact in some way for India.

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